A contractor will quote you 4,000 to 12,000 dollars to screen in an existing covered porch — and most of that bill is labor wrapping fiberglass mesh around 2×2 trim pieces. The materials themselves rarely exceed 600 dollars for a 12×14 foot space. A cheap DIY screened in porch is one of the highest return-on-effort weekend projects in home improvement, turning a buggy outdoor area into a usable three-season room with nothing more than a circular saw, a staple gun, and a free Saturday.
This guide walks through the budget-conscious build that I have used on three different porches with great results.
What “Cheap” Actually Means Here
The under-500-dollar build assumes you already have a roofed porch with intact floor and ceiling. You are screening the open vertical sides only, not constructing the structure. If you need to build a roof, frame the deck, or pour footings, the cost climbs into the thousands quickly.
For a standard 12×14 foot porch with a 7-foot height, you will need roughly 280 square feet of screen and 130 linear feet of trim. Rough material costs at current prices:
- Fiberglass screen mesh, 48-inch by 100-foot roll — 95 dollars
- Pressure-treated 2×2 furring strips (16 pieces, 8 feet) — 110 dollars
- Pressure-treated 1×3 trim for cap strips — 70 dollars
- Stainless steel staples and 2-inch deck screws — 35 dollars
- Pre-hung screen door — 130 dollars
- Door hinges, latch, and closer — 30 dollars
Total: around 470 dollars. Add 20 percent for waste and you are still under budget.
Tools You Need
- Cordless drill with Phillips and 1/8-inch drill bits
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Heavy-duty staple gun (T50 or equivalent)
- Tape measure, square, and pencil
- Sharp utility knife with extra blades
- 4-foot level
- Stepladder
If you do not own a staple gun, the Arrow T50 manual unit is around 25 dollars and will outlast the project by decades.
Choosing Your Screen Material
Three options matter for budget builds. Fiberglass mesh is the cheapest at around 25 cents per square foot, easy to install, and lasts 8 to 10 years before UV damage shows. Aluminum screen costs 40 to 50 cents per square foot and lasts twice as long but is harder to work with — it dents and creases permanently. Pet-resistant screen made from polyester runs about 1.50 per square foot and resists tears from cats and dogs.
For a first DIY build, stick with fiberglass. It is forgiving, simple to cut, and easy to replace in panels later if a section gets damaged.
Step 1: Measure and Plan Your Frame Layout
Walk the perimeter and mark the existing posts. You will install vertical 2×2 furring strips between the posts at roughly 4-foot spacing — close enough to keep the screen taut, far enough apart to maintain the open feel of the porch.
Sketch the layout on paper showing post locations, door placement, and screen panel divisions. Plan the door on the most logical exit path, ideally facing the yard or steps. A standard 32-inch screen door fits between framing 32.5 inches apart with shims.
Step 2: Install the Vertical Furring Strips
- Cut 2×2 pressure-treated stock to height — measure each location individually since porches are rarely perfectly level.
- Pre-drill the top and bottom of each strip to prevent splitting.
- Plumb each strip with the level and screw into the porch ceiling above and floor below using 3-inch deck screws.
- For attachment to existing posts, use 2.5-inch screws angled in from each side.
- Add horizontal cross-braces at 4 feet up if the screen panels exceed 5 feet in height — these prevent screen sag over time.
Take your time on this step. Crooked framing makes every later step harder and shows in the finished result.
Step 3: Hang the Screen Door
Install the door before stretching screen panels — it is much easier to fit screen around an existing door frame than to hang a door into a screened opening.
A pre-hung door comes with the frame pre-installed. Set it into the rough opening, shim plumb and level, then screw through the side jambs into the framing every 16 inches. Attach the strike plate and any closer hardware. A pneumatic door closer (around 20 dollars) keeps the door from slamming and prevents bugs from getting in.
Step 4: Stretch and Staple the Screen
This is where most DIY builds go wrong — loose, wavy screen looks amateurish and tears easily.
- Cut a screen panel about 4 inches wider and taller than the opening.
- Staple the top edge first, working from the center outward, every 3 inches.
- Pull the bottom edge taut — really taut — and staple in the same pattern.
- Stretch each side from center outward, keeping pressure even on both sides.
- Trim excess screen with a utility knife flush along the staples.
- Repeat for each panel.
Two people make this step five times faster than one. Recruit a helper for the day.
Step 5: Cap with 1×3 Trim
The final step covers the staples and gives the porch a finished look. Cut 1×3 pressure-treated stock to length and screw it directly over each furring strip and along the top and bottom edges. Pre-drill to prevent splitting, especially at corners.
Prime and paint the trim if you want a finished aesthetic. Two coats of exterior latex over a primer coat last 5 to 7 years before needing a refresh.
Maintenance and Upgrades
Inspect the screen each spring for tears, sag, and loose staples. Patch small holes with screen repair kits (about 5 dollars). Replace whole panels every 8 to 10 years as fiberglass UV-degrades.
Upgrades to consider after the first season: solar shades for the western exposure, ceiling fan for airflow, vinyl roll-down clear panels to extend use into shoulder seasons, and outdoor rated furniture. The basic build is the foundation — the experience compounds with every small improvement.
