Hanging a heavy mirror, a TV mount, or a floating shelf on drywall without finding a stud means using an anchor. Done right, the wall holds 50 pounds without flinching. Done wrong, you end up with a quarter-sized hole, a dent in your floor, and a frustrated weekend. Learning how to put in screw anchors takes about 10 minutes and the right tools, and once you have the process down it works for every wall material in your home from drywall to concrete to brick.
Pick the Right Anchor for the Job
Walk into Home Depot and you will see ten kinds of anchors hanging on pegs. They are not interchangeable. Match the anchor to the wall and the load:
- Plastic expansion anchors (E-Z Ancor or Buildex): 5 to 30 lb shear in 1/2 inch drywall. Cheapest option, good for small picture frames.
- Self-drilling threaded anchors (Cobra DrillerMax): 25 to 50 lb shear in drywall. No pilot hole needed. My default for most projects.
- Toggle bolts and SnapToggles: 50 to 250 lb shear in drywall. Best for TVs, heavy mirrors, and wall-mounted cabinets.
- Plastic lead anchors: 50 to 200 lb in concrete or brick. Old standard, still works fine.
- Tapcon screws: 100 to 300 lb in concrete. No anchor required, just a hammer drill and a special bit.
Check the package for both shear (downward) and tensile (pull-out) ratings. Manufacturers like Hilti, Powers Fasteners, and Buildex publish detailed load charts on their websites — worth a look for anything over 25 pounds.
Tools You Need
Almost every anchor install needs the same short list:
- Cordless drill with adjustable clutch (DeWalt 20V or Milwaukee M18 are workhorses)
- Drill bit sized to the anchor — check the package for the exact diameter
- Stud finder, even if you plan to use anchors, to know where you should not
- Phillips #2 or square-drive bit
- Hammer (only for hammer-set anchors)
- Level and tape measure
- Pencil for marking
A hammer drill is only required for concrete, brick, or solid masonry. Save the $150 unless you have a project that needs it.
Step-by-Step: Plastic Expansion Anchor in Drywall
This is the classic ribbed plastic anchor, the kind that comes in those plastic bags of 100 for $4.99.
- Mark the hole location with a pencil and confirm there is no stud behind it — anchors do not work in studs.
- Select the drill bit size noted on the package, usually 3/16 or 1/4 inch.
- Drill straight into the wall with steady pressure. Stop when the bit is fully buried.
- Tap the anchor into the hole with a hammer until the rim sits flush with the drywall surface.
- Insert the screw and drive with the drill on a low clutch setting. The anchor will expand against the drywall behind the surface.
- Stop driving when the screw head pulls snug. Overdriving strips the anchor.
If the anchor spins instead of expanding, the hole is oversized. Pull it, move 1 inch over, and try again with a smaller bit.
Self-Drilling Anchors: The Faster Method
Self-drilling anchors like the Cobra DrillerMax or E-Z Ancor Toggle are the fastest install for medium loads. No drill bit, no hammer, no pre-drilled hole.
Drive the anchor directly into the drywall with a Phillips bit on your drill. The threads cut their own path. Stop when the head sits flush with the wall surface. Insert your screw and drive until snug. The whole process takes about 30 seconds per anchor.
These work in 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch drywall only. Plaster walls, lath, or anything with metal studs require a different approach.
Toggle Bolts for Heavy Loads
For TV mounts, heavy shelving, or kitchen cabinets, toggle bolts are the strongest drywall option. The original metal toggle takes a 1/2-inch hole. SnapToggle and Toggler brands use a smaller hole and a plastic strap to hold the toggle in place during install.
- Drill the hole at the size listed on the package, typically 3/8 to 1/2 inch.
- For SnapToggle: insert the metal channel through the hole, pull the plastic straps to seat it against the back of the drywall, then snap the straps off at the wall surface.
- Slide your fastener through the item you are mounting, then thread it into the toggle channel.
- Tighten until snug. The channel pulls against the back of the drywall and distributes the load.
A pair of 3/8-inch SnapToggles will hold a 65-pound flat-screen TV mount comfortably. Always use at least two anchors for any wall mount over 15 pounds.
Masonry Anchors: Concrete, Brick, and Block
For concrete or brick walls, you need a hammer drill and the right masonry bit. Drill the hole to the exact diameter specified on the anchor package, usually 1/4 or 5/16 inch. Drill 1/4 inch deeper than the anchor length to leave room for dust.
Vacuum or blow out the dust before inserting the anchor. Tap a plastic lead anchor in with a hammer until flush, then drive the screw. For Tapcons, no anchor is needed — drive the blue Tapcon screw directly into the pilot hole with your impact driver. They cut their own threads in the concrete.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Drilling too large a hole. Anchor spins in the wall and never holds.
- Forgetting to check for plumbing or electrical lines behind drywall. A $40 stud finder with AC sensing prevents most accidents.
- Overtightening the screw. Strips the anchor or pulls it through the drywall.
- Using drywall anchors in ceilings — never. Use toggle bolts or hit a joist.
- Mixing anchor types in the same load — uneven failure modes.
How Many Anchors and Where
For shelves, space anchors no more than 16 inches apart so each shares the load. For wall-mounted TVs, use the mount’s hole pattern and aim for at least two studs plus anchors as a hybrid mount where possible. Heavy mirrors should use a French cleat anchored at multiple points rather than a single hook.
Now that you know how to put in screw anchors for every common wall type, the next time you hang something there is no excuse for a wobbly install. Buy a variety pack at Lowe’s for around $15, keep them in your toolbox, and you will reach for the right one without thinking about it.
