Whether you are installing new flooring, replacing an old toilet, or fixing a wax ring leak, the toilet needs to come out first. Knowing how to remove a toilet saves you $100 to $200 in plumber fees for a job that takes most homeowners under 30 minutes. The process is straightforward, but skipping a step, especially the water shut-off, turns a simple project into a messy one fast.
- Tools and Materials You Need
- Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply
- Step 2: Disconnect the Water Supply Line
- Step 3: Remove the Closet Bolt Caps and Nuts
- Step 4: Break the Caulk Seal
- Step 5: Lift and Remove the Toilet
- Step 6: Plug the Drain and Clean the Flange
- What to Do With the Old Wax Ring
- When to Call a Plumber Instead
Tools and Materials You Need
- Adjustable wrench or channel-lock pliers
- Flathead screwdriver
- Bucket and sponge
- Old towels or rags
- Putty knife or plastic scraper
- Rubber gloves
- Large garbage bag
- Rag or old towel to plug the drain
If the closet bolts are rusted, a mini hacksaw or oscillating multi-tool with a metal-cutting blade will save you a lot of frustration. Bolt caps that have been painted over may need a utility knife to score around the edges first.
Step 1: Shut Off the Water Supply
Locate the shut-off valve on the wall behind the toilet, usually on the left side near the floor. Turn it clockwise until it stops. If the valve is stuck or does not fully close, shut off the main water supply to the house instead.
Flush the toilet once and hold the handle down to drain as much water as possible from the tank. Remove the tank lid and set it on a towel to prevent cracking. Use a sponge to soak up any remaining water in the tank and the bowl. A wet-dry vacuum speeds this step up considerably.
Step 2: Disconnect the Water Supply Line
Place a bucket under the supply valve connection. Use an adjustable wrench to loosen the coupling nut where the braided supply line meets the shut-off valve. Water will trickle out, so keep the bucket in position. Once disconnected, let the line drain into the bucket.
If you are replacing the toilet, this is a good time to replace the supply line too. Braided stainless steel lines cost $5 to $10 and last longer than the original plastic ones that come with most toilets.
Step 3: Remove the Closet Bolt Caps and Nuts
Two closet bolts anchor the toilet to the floor flange, one on each side of the base. Pop off the decorative plastic caps with a flathead screwdriver. Underneath you will find a nut and washer on each bolt.
Use an adjustable wrench to turn the nuts counterclockwise. If they are corroded and will not budge, spray them with penetrating oil like PB Blaster, wait 10 minutes, and try again. Severely rusted bolts may need to be cut with a hacksaw. Cut just below the nut to avoid damaging the flange.
Step 4: Break the Caulk Seal
Many toilets are caulked around the base where it meets the floor. Score through the caulk with a utility knife before trying to lift the toilet. Attempting to pull the toilet without breaking the caulk seal can chip floor tiles or crack the toilet base.
Run the blade all the way around the base, pressing firmly enough to cut through the caulk but not so hard that you gouge the flooring underneath.
Step 5: Lift and Remove the Toilet
Straddle the toilet, grip the bowl near the seat bolt holes with both hands, and rock it gently side to side to break the wax ring seal. Once it moves freely, lift straight up. A standard toilet weighs 60 to 80 pounds, so bend with your knees and keep your back straight.
Set the toilet on a large garbage bag or old towels to catch residual water and wax. Tilt it slightly to drain any remaining bowl water into the bucket. If you are disposing of the toilet, move it to the garage or outside immediately to free up workspace.
Step 6: Plug the Drain and Clean the Flange
Stuff a rag or old towel into the open drain pipe right away. This prevents sewer gas from entering the bathroom and stops debris from falling into the pipe. Do not skip this step, even for a few minutes.
Use a putty knife to scrape the old wax ring off the floor flange. Remove all wax residue from the flange top and the surrounding floor. Inspect the flange for cracks, rust, or damage. A cracked flange needs a repair ring or full replacement before installing a new toilet, and repair rings cost about $10 at any hardware store.
What to Do With the Old Wax Ring
Old wax rings are not reusable. Scrape the wax into a plastic bag and throw it in the trash. Clean any remaining residue on the floor with mineral spirits and a rag. If the floor around the flange is stained or discolored, this is the ideal time to address it since the area will be hidden once the new toilet goes back down.
When to Call a Plumber Instead
Learning how to remove a toilet is a basic DIY skill, but a few situations warrant professional help. If the floor around the flange feels soft or spongy, you likely have subfloor rot from a long-term leak. A plumber or contractor needs to replace the damaged subfloor and possibly reset the flange height before a new toilet can be installed.
Cast iron flanges in older homes (pre-1970s) can crack during removal. If the flange breaks and sits below floor level, a professional can install a flange extender or replace the fitting. The repair typically costs $150 to $300, which is far less than the water damage from an improperly sealed toilet.
