How to Replace Kitchen Cabinets: A Step-by-Step Guide

Replacing kitchen cabinets is the single most disruptive remodeling project a homeowner ever takes on, and the difference between a 5-day job and a 5-week nightmare comes down to sequence and prep. Knowing how to replace kitchen cabinets means understanding the order — countertop demo before cabinet demo, plumbing rough-in before drywall patching, and base cabinets installed before uppers, despite what your instincts say. Get the sequence right and a competent DIYer can finish a 12-cabinet kitchen in a long weekend plus three evenings. Get it wrong and you live without a sink for a month.

Planning Before You Demo Anything

Before swinging a single hammer, finalize three things. First, the new cabinet layout — measured to the 1/8 inch, with all appliance dimensions and clearances confirmed. Second, the order list — including extra fillers, end panels, scribe molding, toe kicks, and crown. Third, the timing — cabinets ship in 4 to 8 weeks for stock, 8 to 16 for semi-custom. Order well before you tear out the old kitchen.

Take photos of every wall before demo. Behind the old cabinets you will find old paint colors, plumbing routes, and electrical runs that may need rerouting before the new cabinets seal them in.

Tools and Materials You Need

• Cordless drill and driver (impact driver makes a huge difference for cabinet screws)
• Level — 4-foot and 6-foot, plus a torpedo level for inside cabinets
• Stud finder, preferably with electrical detection
• Reciprocating saw and oscillating multi-tool
• Pry bar, hammer, and putty knife
• Cabinet jacks or a couple of 2×4 deadmen for holding uppers
• 2.5-inch and 3-inch cabinet screws (not drywall screws)
• Shims — at least one bundle of cedar shims
• Caulk, paintable filler, and touch-up paint

Step 1: Disconnect Utilities and Demo

Shut off water at the main, gas at the meter for any gas appliances, and the breaker for kitchen circuits. Drain the lines below the sink before disconnecting. Remove the dishwasher, range, and refrigerator first — they need to come out before the cabinets do.

Remove the countertop next. Laminate countertops are usually screwed up into the cabinets from below — back out the screws and lift. Stone countertops require professional removal because the slabs weigh 200 to 400 pounds and crack easily on uneven lifts.

Remove cabinets in reverse install order — uppers first, then bases. Cut the caulk at the wall and ceiling with a utility knife, back out the mounting screws, and pull each cabinet down with a helper.

Step 2: Repair Walls and Mark Layout

Once the room is empty, repair drywall, paint, and any electrical or plumbing routing that needs to change. This is the only window in the project where everything is accessible. Patch holes with setting-type joint compound, prime, and paint at least the areas that will be visible once cabinets are installed.

Now mark the layout on the walls. Find and mark every stud with vertical pencil lines from floor to ceiling. Measure up from the highest point of the floor to mark the top of base cabinets (typically 34.5 inches), the bottom of upper cabinets (typically 54 inches above the floor for 18-inch backsplash), and the top of upper cabinets.

Step 3: Install a Ledger Board for Uppers

Counterintuitively, install upper cabinets first. The reason — base cabinets get in the way of holding uppers level against the wall. Screw a temporary 1×4 ledger board to the wall at the marked height of the upper cabinet bottoms, hitting at least three studs. The cabinets rest on this ledger while you screw them to the wall.

Start in a corner. Set the corner cabinet first, level it left-right and front-back with shims behind, and drive 2.5-inch cabinet screws through the back nailing rail into studs. Two screws minimum at the top rail, two at the bottom rail, into solid wood every time.

Step 4: Hang the Rest of the Uppers

Set each subsequent upper cabinet against the corner cabinet, clamp the face frames together, and drill pilot holes through one face frame into the next. Screw face frames together with 1-1/4 inch trim screws — these stay hidden behind the doors when installed. Once joined, drive cabinet screws through the back rail into wall studs.

Check level at every cabinet. A 1/8 inch error in cabinet 1 becomes a 1-inch gap by cabinet 8. Shim aggressively at the wall to keep faces flush and tops level across the entire run.

Step 5: Set Base Cabinets

Remove the ledger board and start on bases. The corner base cabinet sets first, leveled with shims under the toe kick. Confirm 34.5 inches to the cabinet top — countertops add 1 to 1.5 inches, hitting the standard 36-inch counter height.

Level front-to-back and left-to-right. The most common mistake is leveling each cabinet individually without checking against the neighbors — every cabinet must be level with itself AND level/flush with adjacent cabinets. Shim the floor at every contact point and screw cabinets together at the face frames.

Drive cabinet screws through the back nailing strip into wall studs at the top rear. Toe kicks and scribe molding hide gaps along the floor and walls.

Step 6: Cut Holes for Plumbing and Outlets

Mark and cut holes in cabinet backs for plumbing supply, drain, and gas lines. A jigsaw or hole saw works for round penetrations, an oscillating multi-tool for square cuts. Cut holes 1/2 inch oversize to allow the lines to align without forcing.

For outlets that fall behind cabinet sides or backs, cut precise rectangles and either install the outlet flush in the cabinet wall or relocate it before cabinet install. Code requires accessible outlets — buried boxes inside cabinets are a fail.

Step 7: Install Doors, Drawers, and Hardware

Most stock cabinets ship with doors removed for shipping. Install hinges first — usually European-style cup hinges that snap into pre-drilled cups. Adjust each door for even reveals at the top, bottom, and between adjacent doors. The vertical adjustment screw, horizontal screw, and depth screw on each hinge let you fine-tune in 3 axes.

Install drawer slides and drawer boxes per manufacturer instructions. For hardware (knobs and pulls), use a hardware template like the Liberty Align Right ($15) to drill consistent holes across all doors and drawers.

Step 8: Crown Molding and Finish Work

Crown molding caps the upper cabinets and bridges any gap to the ceiling. Cope inside corners (cope joints look better than mitered inside corners over time as the joint moves). Outside corners use 45-degree miters.

Caulk all gaps between cabinets and walls with paintable acrylic caulk. Touch-up paint any nicks. Install scribe molding along the wall side of the cabinets and toe kick along the bottoms.

Cost and Timeline Reality Check

For a typical 12-cabinet kitchen:

• Cabinets only (stock): $2,500 to $7,000
• Cabinets only (semi-custom): $7,000 to $20,000
• Demo and disposal: $300 to $700
• Countertop replacement: $2,500 to $6,500 for quartz
• Plumber for sink hookup: $250 to $500
• Electrician for outlet relocation: $400 to $900

Timeline: 4 to 7 days for cabinet install if you do it yourself, 2 to 3 days for a professional crew. Add 2 to 3 weeks total for countertop template, fab, and install.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I replace kitchen cabinets myself or hire a contractor?

DIY is realistic if you have basic carpentry skills, time off work, and patience. Hire a contractor for kitchens with extensive plumbing relocation, custom cabinetry, or stone countertops. Pro labor for cabinet-only install runs $80 to $150 per linear foot.

How long does it take to replace kitchen cabinets?

A 12-cabinet kitchen takes 4 to 7 days for a DIY install (3 days demo and prep, 2 to 3 days install, 1 to 2 days finish), or 2 to 3 days for a professional crew. Add 2 to 3 weeks for countertop fabrication and install.

Do I install upper or base cabinets first?

Install upper cabinets first. Base cabinets in the way make it nearly impossible to position uppers against the wall accurately. Use a temporary ledger board to support uppers while you screw them in.

What screws should I use for cabinet installation?

Use 2.5-inch cabinet screws (washer-head or pan-head, not drywall screws) to attach cabinets to wall studs. Drywall screws are brittle and snap under load. Trim-head 1.25-inch screws join cabinet face frames to each other.