Shiplap went from a humble construction material to one of the most requested wall treatments in American homes, largely thanks to home renovation shows that showcased its clean, horizontal lines. But what is shiplap exactly, and is it the right choice for your walls? Understanding the material, its real costs, and the installation process helps you decide whether this popular look belongs in your next remodel.
Shiplap Defined
Shiplap is a type of wooden board with a rabbet (a stepped notch) cut into the top and bottom edges so adjacent boards overlap and interlock. This overlap creates the signature shadow line, a narrow gap between each row, that gives shiplap walls their distinctive look. Originally, shiplap was used as exterior sheathing on houses and barns because the overlapping joint shed water better than butted boards.
Today, most shiplap is installed as an interior decorative wall covering. The boards run horizontally in most applications, though vertical installation has gained popularity for accent walls and bathroom wainscoting.
Real Wood vs MDF Shiplap
You have two main material choices, and the difference affects cost, durability, and appearance significantly.
- Solid wood shiplap: Pine is the most common species, available in 1×6 or 1×8 boards at $1.50-$4.00 per linear foot. Cedar and poplar cost more ($3.00-$6.00/lf) but resist moisture better. Solid wood has natural grain variation and can be stained or left natural
- MDF/primed shiplap: Medium-density fiberboard panels precut with the rabbet profile cost $1.00-$2.50 per linear foot. They come primed and ready to paint, with perfectly smooth surfaces and zero knots. MDF cannot tolerate moisture, so it is strictly an interior product for dry rooms
- Plywood shiplap: Some DIYers rip 1/4-inch plywood into strips on a table saw and route a rabbet on each edge. This is the cheapest method at roughly $0.50-$1.00 per linear foot but requires a table saw and router
Where to Install Shiplap
Shiplap works in nearly every room, but it performs best in certain applications. An accent wall behind a bed, fireplace, or TV creates a focal point without overwhelming the space. Full-room shiplap works in rooms with high ceilings (9 feet or taller) and ample natural light since it can make smaller, darker rooms feel boxed in.
Best Locations
- Living room accent walls and fireplace surrounds
- Bedroom headboard walls
- Bathroom wainscoting (use solid wood with marine-grade paint, not MDF)
- Kitchen island panels and range hood surrounds
- Mudroom and entryway walls
- Ceiling applications (often called a “fifth wall” treatment)
Installation: How to Put Up Shiplap
Installing what is shiplap material on an interior wall is a manageable weekend project for DIYers with basic carpentry tools. The key is starting with a level first course, because every subsequent row follows it.
- Find and mark studs on the wall using a stud finder. Snap chalk lines or mark with painter’s tape
- Install the first board at the bottom of the wall, checking level carefully. Shim if the floor is uneven. Nail through the face into studs with 18-gauge brad nails, 2 inches long
- Stack each subsequent board on top, engaging the rabbet joint. Use a nickel or a spacer to maintain a consistent gap (about 1/16 inch) for the shadow line
- Nail through the top of each board into the studs. Two nails per stud crossing is sufficient
- Cut boards to length with a miter saw. Stagger end joints so seams do not stack vertically
- At the top row, rip the final board to fit and face-nail. Cover the cut edge with crown molding or a flat trim board
An 8 x 10-foot accent wall requires roughly 80 linear feet of 1×6 shiplap, which costs $120-$320 for material depending on your choice of pine, MDF, or premium wood. Add $20-$40 for nails, caulk, and paint.
Finishing and Painting Shiplap
White-painted shiplap remains the most popular look, and for good reason. It brightens a room, pairs with any decor style, and hides imperfections in lower-grade pine boards. Use a high-quality primer (like Zinsser BIN or Kilz Original for knot-blocking) followed by two coats of eggshell or satin latex paint.
For a natural wood look, sand to 150 grit and apply a clear matte polyurethane or a light whitewash using diluted paint (1 part paint to 2 parts water, wiped on and off with a rag). Stained shiplap in grays, weathered browns, and charcoal tones suits modern farmhouse and industrial aesthetics.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Skipping the level check on the first board is the most common error. Even a 1/8-inch deviation compounds over 8 feet of wall height, leaving a noticeable gap at the ceiling or an angled final row. Other frequent mistakes:
- Not acclimating wood boards to indoor humidity for 48-72 hours before installation (boards expand or contract after install, opening gaps)
- Using MDF in bathrooms or laundry rooms where humidity causes swelling and disintegration
- Over-caulking the shadow-line gaps, which defeats the entire purpose of the shiplap look
- Nailing only into drywall without hitting studs (boards will pull away from the wall over time)
Is Shiplap Still in Style?
Shiplap has been a dominant interior trend since 2014 and shows no signs of disappearing, though the style has evolved. The all-white farmhouse look is giving way to painted shiplap in deeper colors like navy, forest green, and black. Vertical installations and ceiling applications add a contemporary twist that keeps the material feeling current rather than dated.
Because shiplap is real wood (or a convincing MDF facsimile), it adds texture and warmth that flat drywall cannot replicate. At $2-$5 per square foot installed, it is one of the most affordable ways to transform a room. Whether the trend eventually fades or not, quality wood wall treatments hold their appeal far longer than wallpaper or paint effects.
