A medicine cabinet adds concealed storage exactly where you need it most — right above the sink, at arm’s reach while you are getting ready. Understanding how to install a medicine cabinet correctly makes the difference between a solid, flush-mounted fixture and one that wobbles, sticks out too far, or damages hidden plumbing. Surface-mount cabinets go up in 20 minutes. Recessed installations take one to three hours but deliver a cleaner, built-in look.
Surface Mount vs. Recessed: Which to Choose
Surface-mount cabinets attach directly to the wall surface and project 4 to 5 inches into the room. They are easier to install since you only need to drive screws into studs or anchors — no wall cutting required. However, the cabinet box sits proud of the wall, which some homeowners find bulky-looking, especially in small bathrooms.
Recessed cabinets sit inside the wall cavity, with only the door and frame visible. The result is a sleek, flush profile that saves several inches of clearance in tight bathrooms. Recessed installation requires cutting into the drywall and may involve rerouting electrical wires or plumbing — always check what is behind the wall before cutting.
Choosing the Right Size
Standard medicine cabinets measure 15 to 24 inches wide, 20 to 30 inches tall, and 3.5 to 5 inches deep. A 16-inch-wide cabinet fits perfectly between two studs on standard 16-inch centers. Wider cabinets require cutting through at least one stud and installing a header and sill — doable but significantly more work.
Center the cabinet above the sink at a height that places the mirror at eye level for the primary user. The bottom edge typically sits 4 to 6 inches above the faucet. Avoid going too high — reaching the top shelf should not require standing on your toes.
Checking the Wall Cavity
Before cutting into any wall for a recessed installation, verify what is hidden behind the drywall. Use a stud finder with wire-detection mode to identify electrical cables and plumbing. Exterior walls often contain insulation, vapor barriers, and sometimes plumbing vent stacks that cannot be easily relocated. Interior walls between a bathroom and a closet or hallway are the most straightforward for recessed installations.
If the wall contains horizontal fire blocking — a 2×4 nailed between studs — you will need to cut it out and install new blocking above and below the cabinet opening. This is common in walls taller than 8 feet.
Installing a Surface-Mount Cabinet
Hold the cabinet against the wall at your desired position and mark the mounting holes with a pencil. Use a level to ensure the marks are perfectly horizontal. Drill pilot holes at each mark, then secure the cabinet with screws into at least one stud. For mounting points that miss studs, use toggle bolts rated for the cabinet’s loaded weight — a full medicine cabinet can weigh 20 to 40 pounds.
Some surface-mount models include a separate mounting plate that screws to the wall first, then the cabinet hooks onto the plate. This system makes leveling easier since you can adjust the plate position before hanging the cabinet.
Installing a Recessed Cabinet Step by Step
- Locate the studs and mark the cabinet outline on the wall, adding 1/4 inch of clearance on each side
- Score the drywall along the outline with a utility knife to prevent tearing
- Cut along the outline with a drywall saw, staying just inside the lines
- Remove the drywall section and clean out any insulation or debris
- If needed, install a 2×4 header across the top and a 2×4 sill across the bottom, screwing into the studs
- Test-fit the cabinet in the opening, checking for level and plumb
- Shim any gaps between the cabinet box and the framing
- Drive screws through the cabinet sides into the studs or framing at the pre-drilled mounting holes
- Attach the door and adjust hinges until the door opens and closes smoothly
Dealing With Plumbing and Electrical Obstacles
Bathroom walls frequently contain supply lines, drain pipes, and electrical wiring for light fixtures or outlets. If you open the wall and find a plumbing vent pipe running vertically through your planned cabinet location, you have two choices: move the cabinet to another stud bay or hire a plumber to reroute the pipe. Rerouting a vent pipe costs $200 to $500 and requires a permit in most jurisdictions.
Electrical wires can often be rerouted within the same wall cavity by adding a few inches of slack and stapling the wire to a stud outside the cabinet footprint. Always turn off the circuit breaker before touching any wiring, and consult an electrician if you are not comfortable working around live circuits.
Finishing and Trim Work
For recessed installations, fill any gaps between the cabinet frame and the drywall with paintable caulk. If the gap exceeds 1/4 inch, cut trim pieces from lattice molding or screen bead to frame the opening. Paint the trim to match the wall color for a seamless appearance.
Inside the cabinet, add small adhesive-backed shelf liners to protect the shelves from spills and make cleaning easier. LED puck lights adhered to the inside top of the cabinet illuminate the contents — battery-operated models with motion sensors cost $8 to $15 for a two-pack.
Common Installation Mistakes
Cutting the drywall opening too large is the most frequent error. Measure twice, cut once — a cabinet that rattles inside an oversized hole requires extensive shimming and trim work to look right. Other mistakes to avoid:
- Skipping the stud finder check and hitting a water pipe with the drywall saw
- Mounting a surface cabinet on drywall anchors that cannot support the loaded weight
- Failing to check level before driving final screws, resulting in a tilted cabinet door
- Installing over an electrical outlet box without relocating the outlet first
Whether you choose surface mount for simplicity or recessed for a clean profile, knowing how to install a medicine cabinet gives you an immediate bathroom storage upgrade. Match the cabinet width to your stud spacing, check the wall cavity before cutting, and take time to level everything precisely.
