8×11 Bathroom Layout: Floor Plans That Work

An 88-square-foot room sounds generous until you try to fit a tub, a double vanity and a toilet with code clearances, and the door hits the vanity on its way in. A good 8×11 bathroom layout is mostly about where you put the plumbing wall and which way the door swings. Get those two decisions right and the room can hold a full primary-bath feature set.

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Here is the quick answer. An 8 by 11 room comfortably fits a standard 60-inch tub or a 48 to 60 inch walk-in shower across one 8-foot end, a 60 to 72 inch vanity on one long wall, and a toilet with full side clearance. A double vanity works if the shower or tub runs across the short wall and the door sits on the opposite short wall or swings outward. Separate tub and shower usually does not fit without squeezing one of them.

The plans that follow use common fixture sizes and widely adopted residential clearances so you can sketch your own room with confidence.

8×11 Bathroom Layout Basics: Dimensions and Clearances

Before choosing a plan, know the space each fixture needs. These figures reflect common residential code minimums plus recommended comfort targets used by kitchen and bath designers. Local codes vary, so confirm with your building department before you finalize anything.

• Toilet side clearance: at least 15 inches from the toilet centerline to any wall, tub or vanity, with 18 inches recommended. That makes 30 to 36 inches the comfortable width for a toilet zone.
• Toilet front clearance: at least 21 inches of open floor in front of the bowl, with 30 inches recommended.
• Vanity front clearance: 21 inches minimum, 30 inches preferred so two people can pass.
• Shower size: minimum interior around 30 by 30 inches; 36 by 48 or 36 by 60 feels far better.
• Shower entry: about 24 inches of clear space in front of the opening.
• Double vanity sink spacing: 30 inches or more between sink centers; 36 inches is comfortable.

An 8 by 11 room gives you about 96 inches on the short walls and 132 inches on the long walls. Subtract wall finish thickness (tile over backer board can eat 3/4 inch per wall) and you are closer to 94 by 130 inches of usable space.

Layout 1: Tub Across the Back Wall, Single Vanity and Toilet

The classic plan. A 60-inch tub runs most of the way across one 8-foot wall, leaving roughly 34 to 36 inches beside it. That leftover space is perfect for a linen tower or a built-in niche.

Along one long wall: the toilet sits next to the tub, centered at least 15 inches (ideally 18) from the tub apron, followed by a 48 to 60 inch vanity. The door enters on the opposite short wall. With all wet fixtures on one wall, the plumbing is compact and inexpensive.

The opposite long wall stays open for towel bars, a bench or a tall storage cabinet. This 8×11 bathroom layout suits family baths where a tub is a must for bathing kids, and resale value matters.

Layout 2: Walk-In Shower Plus Double Vanity

Swap the tub for a 60 by 36 inch walk-in shower across the back short wall, and the room opens up. With a glass panel instead of a curtain, the 8 by 11 footprint reads much larger.

Run a 72-inch double vanity along one long wall. Two sinks at 36 inches on center fit with comfortable elbow room. Place the toilet on the opposite long wall, ideally in the corner farthest from the door so it is not the first thing you see. If you want privacy, a short pony wall (about 36 to 42 inches high) beside the toilet creates a semi-enclosed zone without a full water closet.

This is the most popular primary bathroom plan for 8 by 11 rooms. The tradeoff is losing the tub, which matters if there is no other tub in the house. Many agents suggest keeping at least one tub in a home for broad buyer appeal.

Layout 3: Curbless Wet Room Zone

For a modern or accessible design, dedicate one 8-foot end (roughly 8 by 4 feet) to a curbless wet zone holding a shower and, optionally, a freestanding tub behind a single glass panel. The floor slopes to a linear drain at the back wall, and the remaining floor stays dry.

This approach needs careful waterproofing of the whole wet area and usually some floor framing work to recess the shower pan. It is more expensive, but the result is a spa-like room with a step-free entry, which suits aging in place. A 60-inch vanity and toilet fill the dry side.

Layout 4: Tub and Shower Combo With Double Vanity

If you want both a tub and two sinks, put a 60-inch tub and shower combination on the back short wall and a 60-inch double vanity on one long wall. Sixty inches is the minimum practical width for two sinks; each user gets about 30 inches of counter, which is snug but workable for couples on different schedules.

The toilet goes on the opposite long wall or beside the tub. Check that the door can swing without clipping the vanity. In many 8 by 11 rooms, this plan works only with a pocket door or an out-swinging door.

Layout 5: Separate Toilet Room

An enclosed water closet needs an interior space of about 36 by 60 inches, plus a door. In an 8 by 11 room, carving that out leaves room for a shower and a single vanity, but not a tub. Choose this only if privacy for the toilet is a top priority, for example in a shared primary bath where one person showers while the other gets ready. Add an exhaust fan and light to the toilet room itself.

Door Swing and Entry Placement

Door placement makes or breaks a small bath. A standard 30 to 32 inch door swinging inward sweeps about 7 square feet of floor. That arc cannot overlap the toilet, the vanity front clearance or the shower door.

• Inswing on a short wall: works when the first 32 inches inside the door are open floor.
• Outswing: frees floor space but can block a hallway; check local rules and hallway width.
• Pocket door: the best space saver, though it needs a clear wall cavity, so no plumbing or wiring in that section of wall.
• Barn-style slider: needs wall space beside the opening and does not seal sound or odors well.

Entering on a long wall near the center tends to split the room awkwardly. Entry on a short wall, facing the shower or a window, usually gives the most natural flow.

Plumbing, Ventilation and Lighting Considerations

Moving fixtures costs money. Relocating a toilet means moving a 3-inch drain and its vent, which may require opening floor joists or a slab. Keeping the toilet, tub and at least one sink on the same wall, or back to back with an adjacent kitchen or bath, keeps costs down.

Plan for an exhaust fan sized to the room. A common rule of thumb is 1 CFM per square foot, so an 88-square-foot room needs at least about 80 to 90 CFM; add capacity for long duct runs or a steam shower. Lighting should include vanity lights on both sides of the mirror or over it, a ceiling fixture, and a wet-rated fixture over the shower.

Bathroom outlets must be GFCI-protected. Any new circuits, relocated outlets or fan wiring belong to a licensed electrician, and drain, vent and supply changes to a licensed plumber with the required permits. If you replace a light or fan yourself, turn off the breaker and confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester before touching any wires.

Storage Ideas That Fit

• A 12 to 18 inch deep linen tower in the gap beside a 60-inch tub.
• Recessed shower niches between studs, framed and waterproofed during the remodel.
• A medicine cabinet recessed into an interior wall over the vanity.
• An over-toilet cabinet, mounted high enough to clear the tank lid.
• Vanity drawers instead of doors; drawers hold more and are easier to organize.

Cost Ranges for an 8×11 Bathroom Remodel

Costs vary widely by region and finish level. A cosmetic refresh that keeps every fixture in place (new vanity, toilet, tile and paint) falls at the low end. A mid-range remodel with new tile throughout, a tiled shower and new lighting typically runs in the tens of thousands. Moving plumbing, building a curbless shower or adding a separate toilet room pushes costs higher. Get at least three itemized bids and set aside 10 to 20 percent as a contingency for surprises behind the walls.

When to Call a Professional

Sketching layouts and choosing finishes are great DIY tasks. Hire a designer or contractor when you plan to move plumbing, remove or add walls, recess a shower pan into the floor framing, or relocate the door. A licensed plumber and electrician should handle drain, vent, supply and wiring changes, and most jurisdictions require permits for that work. A pro can also confirm your measurements against local clearance requirements before anything is ordered.