A sagging door is one of the most common — and most annoying — home maintenance issues. It drags across the floor, won’t latch properly, and gets worse over time. The good news: learning how to fix a sagging door is a straightforward DIY project that usually takes 15–30 minutes with basic tools. This guide covers the most common causes, five proven repair methods from easiest to most involved, and tips for preventing the problem from returning.
- What Causes a Door to Sag
- How to Diagnose the Problem
- Tools & Materials Needed
- Method 1: Tighten Hinge Screws (5 Minutes)
- Method 2: Replace With 3-Inch Screws (10 Minutes)
- Method 3: Shim the Hinge (15 Minutes)
- Method 4: Plane or Sand the Edge (20 Minutes)
- Method 5: Replace the Hinges (20–30 Minutes)
- Fixing Exterior & Heavy Doors
- How to Prevent Door Sagging
- Frequently Asked Questions
- What is the fastest way to fix a sagging door?
- Can I fix a sagging door without removing it?
- Why does my door sag again after I fix it?
- How much does it cost to hire someone to fix a sagging door?
- Does a sagging door mean my house is settling?
- Should I use 2-inch or 3-inch screws to fix a sagging door?
What Causes a Door to Sag
Doors sag for several reasons, and identifying the cause determines the fix:
| Cause | How to Identify | Best Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Loose hinge screws | Screws turn freely; hinge plate moves when you push the door | Tighten or replace screws |
| Stripped screw holes | Screws tighten but spin without gripping | Wooden dowel plug + longer screws |
| Worn hinge pins | Hinge knuckles have visible play or gaps | Replace hinges |
| House settling | Gap is uneven — wider at top than bottom (or vice versa) | Shim hinges, then plane if needed |
| Swollen wood (humidity) | Door sticks more in summer, less in winter | Plane or sand the sticking edge; improve ventilation |
| Heavy door on two hinges | Solid-core or glass-insert door on only two hinges | Add a third hinge |
How to Diagnose the Problem
Before grabbing tools, spend 2 minutes diagnosing:
- Close the door slowly and observe where it contacts the frame. Mark the sticking point with painter’s tape.
- Check the gap between the door and frame on all four sides. An even 1/8-inch gap is ideal. If the gap is wider at the top-latch side and tighter at the bottom-latch side, the door is sagging.
- Inspect the hinges. Open the door and try wiggling it up and down. If there’s play, the hinges are the issue.
- Check for stripped screws. Use a screwdriver to tighten each hinge screw. If any spin without resistance, the screw holes are stripped.
Tools & Materials Needed
| Tool/Material | Purpose | Cost (if not owned) |
|---|---|---|
| Phillips screwdriver or drill | Remove and drive screws | $5–$15 |
| 3-inch wood screws (#10) | Reach through jamb into framing stud | $5 for a box |
| Wooden golf tees or dowels (3/8″) | Fill stripped screw holes | $3–$5 |
| Wood glue | Secure dowel plugs | $4–$6 |
| Cardboard shims | Reposition hinge angle | $0 (use cereal box) |
| Block plane or sandpaper (80-grit) | Remove wood from sticking edge | $15–$30 (plane) |
| Painter’s tape | Mark sticking points | $4 |
Method 1: Tighten Hinge Screws (5 Minutes)
This fixes 50% of sagging doors and costs nothing.
- Open the door to 90 degrees.
- Starting with the top hinge (the one under the most stress), tighten all screws on both the door side and the jamb side.
- Repeat for the middle hinge (if present) and bottom hinge.
- Close the door and test. If the gap is now even and the door latches smoothly, you’re done.
Pro tip: Use a manual screwdriver for final tightening — a power drill can easily strip soft wood.
Method 2: Replace With 3-Inch Screws (10 Minutes)
If the screws are tight but the door still sags, the original 3/4-inch screws aren’t reaching the wall stud behind the jamb.
- Remove one screw at a time from the top hinge jamb plate (don’t remove all at once or the door will fall).
- Replace each short screw with a 3-inch #10 wood screw. This screw passes through the 3/4-inch jamb and penetrates 2+ inches into the structural stud.
- Drive the screw slowly until the hinge plate is snug but not over-tightened (over-tightening can pull the jamb out of alignment).
- Replace at least 2 of the 3 screws in the top hinge for maximum hold.
This single fix resolves about 80% of persistent sagging door problems.
Method 3: Shim the Hinge (15 Minutes)
Shimming repositions the hinge to change the door’s angle. It’s the right fix when the door frame has shifted due to house settling.
- Close the door and identify which way it sags.
- If the door drops toward the latch side, you need to shim the bottom hinge (to push the bottom of the door toward the hinge side).
- Remove the bottom hinge screws from the jamb side only.
- Cut a piece of thin cardboard (cereal box thickness) to match the hinge plate shape.
- Place the shim behind the hinge plate, re-attach with screws, and test.
- Add additional shim layers if needed — each layer shifts the door by about 1/16 inch.
Method 4: Plane or Sand the Edge (20 Minutes)
When hinge adjustments alone don’t solve the problem, you may need to remove material from the sticking edge.
- Mark the sticking area with painter’s tape by closing the door and noting where it contacts the frame.
- For minor sticking (less than 1/8 inch): sand the marked area with 80-grit sandpaper while the door is on its hinges.
- For more material removal: take the door off its hinges by tapping the hinge pins out from below with a nail and hammer. Lay it on sawhorses and use a block plane, working in the direction of the grain.
- Remove material gradually — you can always take more off, but you can’t add it back.
- Sand smooth with 120-grit, prime, and paint the exposed edge to seal it against moisture. For paint touch-up tips, see our guide on how to repair chipped paint.
Be aware that planing a door edge may affect the appearance of the flooring transition underneath. If you’re also updating floors, check our laminate flooring cost guide for options that accommodate slight door adjustments.
Method 5: Replace the Hinges (20–30 Minutes)
If hinges are visibly worn, bent, or painted over with 20 coats of latex, replacement is the cleanest fix.
- Buy new hinges matching the existing size (most interior doors use 3.5-inch hinges; exterior doors use 4-inch).
- Replace one hinge at a time so the door stays supported.
- If the old screw holes are stripped, fill them with a wooden dowel dipped in wood glue, let dry for 1 hour, then drill pilot holes and install new screws.
- For heavy solid-core doors on only two hinges, add a third hinge centered between the existing two. This distributes weight and prevents future sagging.
New hinges cost $3–$8 each for interior doors and $8–$15 for exterior-grade hinges.
Fixing Exterior & Heavy Doors
Exterior doors are heavier (40–80 pounds vs. 15–25 for hollow-core interior doors) and face weather stress. Additional considerations:
- Always use 3-inch screws on all three hinges, not just the top one.
- Use three hinges minimum. Doors over 80 inches tall or heavier than 60 pounds should have four hinges.
- Check the threshold. A sagging exterior door often drags on the threshold, damaging both the door bottom and the weatherstripping. Adjust hinges first, then replace the threshold sweep if damaged ($10–$20).
- Seal planed edges immediately. Exposed wood on an exterior door absorbs moisture rapidly, causing the sag to return. Apply primer and two coats of exterior paint within 24 hours of planing.
How to Prevent Door Sagging
- Don’t hang heavy items on doors (over-the-door hooks with heavy coats stress the top hinge).
- Don’t let children swing on doors — this is the #1 cause of sagging in family homes.
- Control indoor humidity to prevent wood swelling. Keep relative humidity between 30–50% using a dehumidifier or HVAC system.
- Tighten hinge screws annually as part of routine home maintenance.
- Use three hinges on any door that is solid-core, has glass inserts, or is taller than 80 inches.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the fastest way to fix a sagging door?
Tighten the hinge screws, starting with the top hinge. If that doesn’t work, replace the top hinge’s jamb-side screws with 3-inch screws that reach the wall stud. These two steps fix approximately 80% of sagging doors in under 10 minutes.
Can I fix a sagging door without removing it?
Yes. Methods 1 through 3 (tightening screws, replacing with longer screws, and shimming hinges) are all performed with the door on its hinges. Only planing requires door removal, and even minor sanding can be done in place.
Why does my door sag again after I fix it?
Recurring sag usually means the screw holes are stripped and the wood can’t hold the screws. Fill the stripped holes with glue-coated wooden dowels, let them cure for 24 hours, then re-drill and install 3-inch screws. Also check that no one is hanging heavy items on the door.
How much does it cost to hire someone to fix a sagging door?
A handyman typically charges $75–$150 for a sagging door repair, which includes adjusting or replacing hinges and planing if needed. Given that the DIY fix costs $5–$15 in materials and 15–30 minutes of time, this is one of the most rewarding DIY projects for homeowners.
Does a sagging door mean my house is settling?
Not necessarily. The most common cause is simply loose hinge screws from years of use. However, if multiple doors in your home are simultaneously sticking or sagging, and you notice cracks in drywall near door frames, foundation settling could be the cause. Consult a structural engineer if you suspect foundation issues ($300–$500 for an inspection).
Should I use 2-inch or 3-inch screws to fix a sagging door?
Use 3-inch #10 wood screws. Two-inch screws may not reach the stud behind the jamb, which is the key to a lasting fix. The screw must pass through the hinge plate (1/8 inch), the jamb (3/4 inch), and any gap or shim space, then penetrate at least 1.5 inches into the stud.
Last updated: March 2026
