A dripping kitchen faucet wastes up to 3,000 gallons of water per year and makes every trip to the sink an annoyance. Knowing how to install a kitchen faucet yourself eliminates the $150 to $300 plumber fee and lets you upgrade to a modern pull-down or touchless model on your own schedule. The job takes 45 minutes to an hour with basic tools, even if you have never done plumbing work before.
Choosing the Right Faucet Style
Kitchen faucets fall into three main configurations based on mounting holes. Single-hole faucets combine the spout and handle in one base unit — they require only one pre-drilled hole in the sink or countertop and are the easiest to install. Widespread faucets use three separate holes for the spout and two handles, spaced 6 to 8 inches apart. Pull-down faucets feature a detachable spray head on a flexible hose and typically mount through a single hole with a weight-and-dock system under the sink.
Check your existing sink or countertop for the number and spacing of pre-drilled holes before purchasing. Drilling new holes through granite or quartz requires a diamond core bit and professional experience — it is far easier to match the faucet to your existing hole configuration and use a deck plate to cover unused holes.
Tools and Materials Needed
- Adjustable wrench
- Basin wrench (essential for reaching nuts under the sink)
- Channel-lock pliers
- Bucket and towels
- Plumber’s putty or silicone sealant
- Teflon tape
- Flashlight or headlamp
- New braided stainless steel supply lines (if not included with faucet)
Removing the Old Faucet
Turn off both hot and cold shut-off valves under the sink. Open the faucet to release pressure and drain residual water. Place a bucket under the supply line connections, then disconnect the supply lines from the shut-off valves using an adjustable wrench. Under the sink, use a basin wrench to reach the mounting nuts that hold the faucet to the sink deck — these nuts sit in a cramped space that standard wrenches cannot access.
Once the mounting nuts are removed, lift the old faucet straight up and off the sink. Scrape away old plumber’s putty or silicone from around the mounting holes with a plastic putty knife. Clean the sink deck surface with mineral spirits or rubbing alcohol so the new faucet seats flat.
Installing a Single-Hole Faucet
Apply a bead of plumber’s putty around the base of the faucet, or use the rubber gasket included in the box. Feed the supply hoses and mounting hardware down through the sink hole from above. Underneath the sink, hand-thread the mounting nut onto the threaded stud and tighten with a basin wrench until the faucet base sits firmly against the sink deck without spinning.
Connect the hot and cold supply lines to the corresponding shut-off valves. Hand-tighten first, then snug with an adjustable wrench — a quarter turn past hand-tight is usually enough. Over-tightening brass compression fittings is the number one cause of leaks on new installations.
Installing a Pull-Down Faucet
Pull-down faucets add one extra step: threading the spray hose through the spout before mounting. Feed the hose down through the faucet body, then through the sink hole. Attach the counterweight to the hose underneath the sink at the manufacturer’s specified location — typically 6 to 8 inches above the connection point. The counterweight retracts the spray head back into the spout after use.
Connect the spray hose to the diverter valve or supply line using the quick-connect fitting. Most modern pull-down faucets use tool-free snap fittings that click into place without wrenches. Tug the connection gently to confirm it is locked.
Connecting Supply Lines
Replace old supply lines with new braided stainless steel lines every time you install a new faucet. Old rubber or PVC lines degrade over time and are the most common source of under-sink water damage. A pair of 20-inch braided supply lines costs $8 to $12 and lasts 8 to 10 years.
Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the shut-off valve threads — three wraps is standard. Thread the supply line nut onto the valve and hand-tighten, then give it a half turn with pliers. Connect the other end to the faucet inlet using the same method. Keep the lines free of kinks; a sharp bend restricts flow and stresses the connection over time.
Testing for Leaks
Remove the faucet aerator before turning the water back on — this catches debris that loosens during installation and would otherwise clog the aerator screen. Slowly open both shut-off valves and let water run for 30 seconds. Inspect every connection point with a dry paper towel, pressing it against each fitting. Even a tiny drip will show up immediately on dry paper.
Check under the sink with a flashlight for drips at the supply line connections, the mounting nut, and the spray hose fitting. If a connection leaks, turn off the water, snug the fitting an additional quarter turn, and re-test. Persistent leaks usually mean the Teflon tape is wrinkled or the washer inside the fitting is missing or misaligned.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Low water pressure after installation is almost always a clogged aerator screen. Remove the aerator, rinse out any debris, and reinstall. If pressure is still low, check that both shut-off valves are fully open — partially open valves restrict flow significantly.
- Faucet spins on the sink deck: The mounting nut is not tight enough. Tighten from below with a basin wrench.
- Pull-down hose does not retract: The counterweight is too high or missing. Reposition it lower on the hose.
- Hot and cold reversed: Supply lines are connected to the wrong shut-off valves. Swap them.
- Base leaks when running: Plumber’s putty or gasket is not sealed. Remove the faucet, reapply putty, and reinstall.
Once you understand how to install a kitchen faucet, the process becomes routine. A basin wrench, fresh supply lines, and careful leak testing are the three essentials. Take your time with the connections under the sink and you will have a drip-free faucet that lasts a decade or more.
