That two-inch gap between the bottom of your fence and the ground is the single most common reason dogs escape, rabbits invade gardens, and erosion undermines posts. Bottom of fence ideas need to balance three competing goals — blocking the gap, allowing drainage so wood doesn’t rot, and looking intentional rather than slapped together. The cheap solution of stuffing chicken wire into the gap looks terrible and rusts within two seasons. Five better approaches solve the problem permanently.
Why the Gap Exists in the First Place
Fence installers leave a 1 to 4 inch gap below pickets for good reasons. Wood touching soil wicks moisture upward and rots within two to three years. Air circulation under the fence dries pickets after rain and prevents mold growth. The gap also accommodates ground heave during winter freeze-thaw cycles, which is significant in Zones 4 to 6.
The IRC and most municipal codes do not require closing this gap. But homeowners with pets, livestock, or vegetable gardens often need to seal it. The trick is keeping the drainage and rot protection benefits while creating a barrier.
Option One: Pressure-Treated Kickboards
The cleanest solution is installing a horizontal pressure-treated 2×6 or 2×8 board along the bottom of the fence, sometimes called a rot board or kickboard. The board sits an inch above grade and the pickets attach to it rather than to the bottom rail. Water drips off the bottom edge rather than wicking into picket ends.
Cost: $1.80 to $3.50 per linear foot in pressure-treated southern yellow pine from Home Depot or Lowe’s. For a 100-foot back fence, plan $180 to $350 in lumber plus stainless or hot-dipped galvanized fasteners. Add $300 to $450 in labor through a fence contractor or about four hours of DIY work.
Option Two: Concrete Mow Strip
For permanent dog-proofing, pour a 6-inch-wide, 4-inch-deep concrete curb along the fence line. The bottom of the fence sits directly on the curb, which extends 2 inches above grade. Diggers hit concrete instead of dirt, and grass can’t grow up into the pickets. Mowing right up to the fence becomes possible without a string trimmer.
Cost: $4.50 to $8 per linear foot installed, or $1.20 per linear foot in materials (premix Quikrete and rebar) if pouring yourself. For 100 feet of fence, expect $120 to $200 in materials and $300 to $500 in labor. The curb lasts 30+ years and dramatically reduces fence maintenance.
Option Three: Galvanized Hardware Cloth Buried L-Footer
Standard chain link doesn’t dig-proof a fence because dogs and coyotes dig under it. The professional answer is an L-footer — galvanized hardware cloth or chicken wire that runs 12 inches up the inside of the fence and then bends 90 degrees to lie flat under the soil another 12 to 18 inches inward. Animals digging at the fence hit the buried mesh and give up.
Use 19-gauge minimum hardware cloth from Tractor Supply or Lowe’s at $0.78 per linear foot for 3-foot width. Bury under 2 inches of soil and let grass grow over it. For 100 feet of fence, plan $80 in mesh, $30 in landscape staples, and a Saturday of trenching with a flat shovel.
Option Four: River Rock Drainage Strip
Pretty and practical at the same time. Excavate a 6-inch-deep, 12-inch-wide trench along the fence line. Line with landscape fabric, then fill with 1 to 2 inch river rock or drainage stone. The rock creates a visual border, blocks weed growth, and improves drainage so the fence bottom stays dry.
Cost: roughly $1.50 per square foot in materials. A 100×1-foot strip uses about 2 cubic yards of rock at $80 to $120 per yard delivered. Total around $200 in materials plus four hours of digging. Use Coronado or Western Pacific Pumice Stone for desert climates, or local river rock from a stone yard in cooler regions.
Option Five: No-Dig Fence Spike Strips
For renters or homeowners who can’t modify the fence permanently, no-dig spike strips from Dig Defence or Coyote Roller work on existing fences without altering the original structure. Dig Defence rods are 15-inch galvanized stakes that pound into the soil through pre-drilled mounting brackets. They block digging without trenching.
Cost: $1.99 per stake from the Dig Defence website, with mounting brackets at $0.50 each. A 100-foot fence at 6-inch spacing needs about 200 stakes, totaling $498. More expensive than buried wire but completely reversible and visible-warning for raccoons and possums.
Comparing the Five Approaches
Each option solves a slightly different problem:
- Kickboards: best for new fence builds, integrates with existing aesthetic, $300-$650 per 100 ft
- Concrete mow strip: best for digging dogs and clean mowing, $420-$700 per 100 ft
- Buried L-footer: best dig-proofing on existing fences, $110 per 100 ft DIY
- River rock strip: best for drainage and aesthetics, $200 per 100 ft DIY
- Dig Defence stakes: best reversible option, $500 per 100 ft
For most suburban homeowners with a wood privacy fence and one or two dogs, a kickboard plus buried L-footer combination provides total protection at moderate cost. Larger properties with coyote pressure may need the concrete curb plus tall fencing.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
The biggest error is letting wood touch soil directly. Even pressure-treated lumber rots in 3 to 5 years when buried, and 10 to 15 years when in contact with damp ground. Always keep wood at least an inch above grade or use a dedicated rot board designed for ground contact.
Second, skipping landscape fabric under any rock or gravel solution. Weeds will grow up through the rock within one season without fabric. Use 3.5-oz or heavier woven fabric like Mutual Industries or DeWitt P-3, not the cheap spun-bonded fabric that tears during installation. The third mistake is overlooking gates — most dog escapes happen at the gate sweep, not the pickets. Install a proper gate sweep bristle or rubber blade from Stanley or Magic Mesh for $25 to $40 per gate.
