Cedar Flooring Guide: Pros, Cons, Cost, and Where to Use It

In my 20+ years of flooring experience, cedar is one of the most misunderstood flooring materials I encounter. Homeowners are drawn to its beautiful color, natural aroma, and insect-repelling properties — but cedar flooring isn’t right for every situation. I’ve installed cedar floors in cabins, closets, sunrooms, and even main living areas, and I’ve learned exactly where it shines and where it falls short. This guide gives you the honest, practical truth about cedar flooring so you can decide if it’s the right choice for your project.

Types of Cedar Used for Flooring

Not all cedar is created equal when it comes to flooring. The two most common types you’ll encounter are Western red cedar and aromatic Eastern red cedar, and they serve very different purposes.

Western Red Cedar

Western red cedar (Thuja plicata) is the type most commonly used for flooring in living spaces. It has a rich, reddish-brown color with pronounced grain patterns that darken beautifully over time. Western red cedar has a Janka hardness rating of about 350, which makes it a very soft wood — significantly softer than pine (690) and dramatically softer than oak (1,290). This softness is its biggest limitation as a flooring material.

Aromatic Eastern Red Cedar

Aromatic cedar (Juniperus virginiana) is the cedar most people think of when they picture cedar closets and cedar chests. It has a distinctive, intense fragrance from the natural oils that repel moths and other insects. This type is primarily used for closet floors and lining rather than main living area floors. Its Janka rating is slightly higher at around 900, making it moderately harder than Western red cedar.

Alaskan Yellow Cedar

Alaskan yellow cedar (Callitropsis nootkatensis) is less common but worth mentioning. It’s harder than Western red cedar (about 580 Janka), has excellent rot resistance, and features a pale yellowish color. It’s sometimes used in Pacific Northwest homes and makes a respectable flooring material for moderate-traffic areas.

Pros of Cedar Flooring

Stunning Natural Beauty

There’s no denying that cedar is gorgeous. The warm reddish tones, dramatic grain patterns, and natural color variation create a floor that looks rustic and inviting. Cedar develops a beautiful patina over time, and each plank is unique. For cabins, lake houses, and rustic-style homes, few materials match cedar’s aesthetic warmth.

Natural Insect and Moisture Resistance

Cedar’s natural oils give it genuine resistance to insects, rot, and moisture damage. While I’d never call it waterproof, cedar holds up to humidity and occasional moisture better than most other softwoods. This makes it particularly suitable for covered porches, three-season rooms, and spaces with variable humidity levels.

Pleasant Aroma

Aromatic cedar’s fragrance is more than just pleasant — the thujone and other volatile compounds actively repel moths, carpet beetles, and other fabric-damaging insects. In closets and storage areas, this is a genuine functional benefit, not just an aesthetic one. The scent diminishes over time but can be refreshed by lightly sanding the surface.

Thermal Properties

Cedar is an excellent natural insulator, and it feels warm underfoot even without radiant heating. In cold climates, this is a real advantage over tile, concrete, or even dense hardwoods. I’ve had clients in mountain cabins specifically choose cedar because it feels comfortable barefoot even on chilly mornings.

Sustainability

Cedar is widely available from sustainable North American sources. It grows relatively quickly compared to hardwoods, and many suppliers offer FSC-certified cedar products. If environmental impact matters to you, domestically sourced cedar is one of the more eco-friendly solid wood options.

Cons of Cedar Flooring

Very Soft — Dents and Scratches Easily

This is the biggest issue with cedar flooring, and I want to be very direct about it. At 350 Janka (Western red cedar), this wood dents if you look at it wrong. Dropped objects, furniture legs, high heels, and even heavy footsteps can leave permanent impressions. If you have large dogs, cedar flooring in living areas will show significant wear within the first year. This softness is the reason I only recommend cedar for specific applications, not as a whole-house flooring material.

Not Suitable for High-Traffic Areas

Cedar simply cannot handle heavy foot traffic. Hallways, kitchens, and entryways will develop noticeable wear paths relatively quickly. I’ve seen cedar hallways that looked ten years older than the cedar in adjacent bedrooms simply due to the difference in traffic.

Color Change Over Time

Cedar’s color changes significantly with UV exposure. Unfinished cedar grays out over time, while finished cedar darkens considerably. If you place a rug on a cedar floor and then remove it months later, you’ll see a dramatic difference in color. This is more pronounced with cedar than with most other flooring woods.

Limited Refinishing Options

Because cedar is so soft, you need to be very careful when sanding. Aggressive sanding can remove too much material quickly, create uneven surfaces, or expose the softer heartwood and sapwood in unflattering ways. You can typically only refinish cedar floors two to three times before the boards become too thin, compared to five or more times for hardwood floors.

Cedar Flooring Cost

Cedar flooring is moderately priced compared to hardwoods, though not as cheap as some homeowners expect given that it’s a softwood.

Material Costs

• Western red cedar planks: $4 to $8 per square foot
• Aromatic cedar tongue-and-groove (closet grade): $2 to $5 per square foot
• Premium clear-grade cedar: $7 to $12 per square foot
• Reclaimed cedar: $8 to $15 per square foot

Installation Costs

Professional installation typically runs $3 to $6 per square foot for nail-down installation over a subfloor. The total installed cost for a standard cedar floor ranges from $7 to $14 per square foot, depending on the grade, species, and your location. For comparison, red oak installed costs $8 to $14 per square foot, so cedar isn’t significantly cheaper despite being a less durable material.

Long-Term Cost Considerations

Factor in that cedar floors will need refinishing more frequently than hardwood — possibly every five to seven years in moderate-traffic areas compared to ten to fifteen years for oak. This ongoing maintenance cost narrows the price gap further. I always make sure clients understand the total cost of ownership, not just the upfront price.

Where to Use Cedar Flooring

Ideal Applications

Based on my experience, these are the applications where cedar flooring truly excels:

• Closets: Aromatic cedar closet flooring is a classic choice that provides genuine moth protection and a pleasant fragrance
• Cabins and lake houses: The rustic aesthetic is perfect, and the casual environment is forgiving of dents and wear
• Covered porches and three-season rooms: Cedar’s natural moisture and insect resistance make it well-suited for semi-outdoor spaces
• Bedrooms: Low-traffic areas where the soft, warm feel is an advantage
• Saunas and steam rooms: Cedar’s thermal properties and moisture resistance make it the standard sauna wood

Where to Avoid Cedar

• Kitchens: Too soft for dropped utensils and heavy foot traffic
• Entryways and hallways: High-traffic wear will be visible quickly
• Homes with large dogs: Nail scratches and dents will be severe
• Formal living rooms: Unless a very rustic aesthetic is desired

Installation Guide

Subfloor Preparation

Cedar requires a clean, level, and dry subfloor. Because it’s soft, any imperfections in the subfloor will telegraph through more obviously than with harder woods. I always recommend a moisture barrier over concrete subfloors and ensuring plywood subfloors are flat to within 3/16 inch over 10 feet.

Acclimation

Allow cedar planks to acclimate in the installation room for at least 72 hours — I prefer a full week. Cedar is more dimensionally responsive to humidity changes than many hardwoods, and proper acclimation prevents gaps and buckling after installation.

Installation Methods

Nail-down: The preferred method for cedar tongue-and-groove planks over a plywood subfloor. Use a pneumatic flooring nailer with cleats every 8 to 10 inches. Pre-drilling may be necessary near board ends to prevent splitting.

Glue-down: Works for cedar over concrete slabs. Use a moisture-curing urethane adhesive rated for softwoods. This method helps reduce movement and provides a solid, quiet floor.

Floating: Not recommended for solid cedar. The wood is too soft and dimensionally unstable for a reliable floating installation.

Finishing Cedar Floors

Oil-Based Finishes

I prefer penetrating oil finishes on cedar floors. Products like Rubio Monocoat, Osmo, or Danish oil soak into the wood grain and enhance the natural color without building up a surface film. Oil finishes are easy to spot-repair — a huge advantage on a soft wood that’s prone to denting. They also allow the wood to breathe and develop its natural patina.

Polyurethane

Water-based polyurethane provides more surface protection but creates a film that can chip or peel when the soft wood underneath dents. Oil-based polyurethane adds a warm amber tone that complements cedar’s natural color. If you choose poly, I recommend a satin or matte sheen — glossy finishes show every dent and scratch on soft wood.

Leaving Cedar Unfinished

Some clients ask about leaving cedar unfinished, particularly in closets and rustic applications. For closets, unfinished aromatic cedar is actually preferred because the finish would seal in the oils that repel insects. For living areas, I always recommend at least a penetrating oil to protect against staining and make cleaning easier.

Maintenance and Care

Cedar floors require more attentive maintenance than hardwood floors. Here’s my recommended care routine:

• Daily: Sweep or dry-mop to remove grit (grit causes more damage on soft wood)
• Weekly: Damp mop with a gentle, pH-neutral wood cleaner
• Quarterly: Check for dents or scratches that need spot repair
• Annually: Reapply penetrating oil finish to high-traffic areas
• Every 5-7 years: Full refinish for moderate-traffic floors

Always use felt pads on all furniture legs, and replace them regularly. Avoid rolling chairs directly on cedar — use a hard floor mat under office chairs. Keep pet nails trimmed short, and place rugs at exterior doors to catch grit.

Cedar vs. Other Softwood Floors

Cedar vs. Pine

Pine is harder than Western red cedar (690 vs. 350 Janka) and significantly more affordable ($2-$5/sq ft for materials). For rustic flooring where budget matters, pine offers better durability. However, cedar has superior moisture and insect resistance, making it the better choice for porches and humid environments.

Cedar vs. Douglas Fir

Douglas fir (660 Janka) is another popular softwood floor and is nearly twice as hard as Western red cedar. It has a beautiful straight grain and warm color that suits rustic and modern homes alike. For living area flooring, Douglas fir is generally the better choice; cedar wins only in moisture resistance and aroma.

Cedar vs. Cypress

Cypress (510 Janka) offers similar moisture and insect resistance to cedar with better hardness. It’s popular in the Southeast and has a distinctive grain. If you want cedar-like properties with better durability, cypress is worth considering, though it may be harder to source depending on your location.