A single split shake can let water reach the underlayment long before you see a stain on the ceiling. The good news is that cedar shake replacement for a handful of damaged pieces does not require tearing off the roof. You slide a shingle ripper under the bad shake, cut the hidden nails, pull out the pieces, then slip a new shake into the gap and fasten it so the nails end up covered by the course above.
The job works best when the damage is isolated: a few split, cupped, curled or missing shakes on a roof that is otherwise sound. When damage is widespread, shakes are brittle, or the underlayment is failing, repair turns into a losing game and a re-roof is the smarter spend.
This guide focuses on swapping individual shakes. For broader questions about materials, lifespan and full cedar roof systems, see our general cedar shake roof coverage. Here we stick to the hands-on repair, safety and the patch-or-replace decision.
When Cedar Shake Replacement Makes Sense
Walk the perimeter with binoculars first. You are looking for shakes that are split all the way through with the split lined up over a joint in the course below, pieces that have cupped or curled so their edges lift, shakes that are missing entirely, and spots with heavy moss or rot. A shallow split that does not align with a gap underneath is often harmless, because the shake below still covers the joint.
Replacing individual pieces is worth it when fewer than roughly 10 to 15 percent of the shakes on a roof plane show problems and the remaining shakes still feel solid. If shakes crumble when pressed, if many are thin and worn at the butts, or if you see daylight from the attic in multiple places, patching will only buy a short reprieve. Age matters too: a roof well into the back half of its expected life is usually a better candidate for a full replacement estimate.
Ladder and Fall Safety First
Roof work is where most serious DIY injuries happen. Use a sturdy extension ladder set at about a 4-to-1 angle, extending at least 3 feet above the eave, tied off at the top and on firm, level footing. On the roof, wear a fall-arrest harness attached to a properly installed roof anchor, and wear soft-soled shoes with good grip. Wood shakes are slippery when wet, mossy or covered in dew, so work only on dry days.
Use roof jacks and a plank for a stable platform if you will be working for more than a few minutes in one spot. Do not step directly on brittle shakes; they can split under your weight. If the roof is steep (roughly steeper than a 6-in-12 pitch), two or more stories high, or you are not comfortable with fall protection, hire a roofer. No shake is worth a fall.
Tools and Materials
- A shingle ripper (a flat, hooked bar that slides under shakes to cut or pull nails)
- Hammer and a flat pry bar
- Replacement cedar shakes matched in thickness, length and grade
- Stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized ring-shank nails
- Utility knife or sharp chisel and a small handsaw or oscillating tool
- Roofing felt or underlayment patch, if the interlayment is damaged
- Nail set, tape measure, chalk or pencil
- Fall-arrest harness, roof anchor, ladder stabilizer, gloves and safety glasses
Step-by-Step Cedar Shake Replacement
- Split out the damaged shake. Tap a chisel into the bad shake along the grain to break it into narrow strips. Pull the loose strips out by hand. The pieces directly under the course above will still be held by nails.
- Cut the hidden nails. Slide the shingle ripper up under the course above until its hook catches a nail shank. Strike the handle downward with a hammer to cut or pull the nail. Repeat for each nail, usually two per shake. Take your time so you do not tear the underlayment or lift neighboring shakes.
- Inspect underneath. With the shake out, look at the interlayment felt and sheathing. Slip a patch of felt under the upper course if the existing layer is torn, and replace any soft sheathing before going further.
- Size the new shake. Measure the gap and trim the replacement so it leaves about 3/8 inch to 1/2 inch of space on each side. Shakes swell when wet, and tight joints lead to buckling.
- Slide it into place. Push the new shake up under the course above until its butt sits about 1/2 inch to 1 inch below the neighboring butts. This offset lets you drive it the rest of the way while hiding the nails.
- Nail in the exposed area, then drive it up. Drive two nails just below the butt line of the course above, angled slightly upward, about 3/4 inch in from each edge. Then place a block of wood against the butt of the new shake and tap it upward until it aligns with its neighbors. The nails move up with it and end up hidden under the upper course. This hidden nailing method is the standard approach for a clean repair.
- Alternative for stubborn spots. If the shake will not drive up, face-nail it just below the upper course butt and seal the nail heads with a dab of roofing sealant. It is less elegant but keeps water out.
- Check side-lap alignment. Joints between shakes in one course should be offset at least 1-1/2 inches from joints in the course below. If your replacement creates an aligned joint, slip a piece of metal flashing or felt beneath it.
Matching New Shakes to an Old Roof
New cedar is bright tan to reddish, while weathered cedar turns silver-gray. A fresh patch will stand out for a year or two before it weathers in. Some homeowners apply a bleaching or weathering stain to speed the match, but that is cosmetic and optional. What matters more is thickness: a thinner shake leaves a visible step and may not be held tightly, and a thicker one can lift the course above. Bring a removed piece to the supplier to match the butt thickness and length.
Grade also counts. Premium grades are clear, edge-grain wood that resists splitting. Lower grades with knots and flat grain crack sooner, so it pays to buy good material even for a small cedar shake replacement job.
Troubleshooting
The ripper will not find the nail
Slide it farther up and sweep side to side. Nails are typically placed about 1 inch above the butt line of the course above them and roughly 3/4 inch from each edge.
Neighboring shakes crack while you work
Old shakes get brittle. Work on a cool, slightly humid morning when the wood is more pliable, and replace the neighbor too if it splits through.
The new shake sits proud of the others
It is too thick or the nails caught high. Pull it, check for debris underneath, and swap for a thinner piece if needed.
Leak continues after the repair
The source may be flashing at a chimney, valley or vent rather than the shake itself. Water can travel along the underlayment before it shows up inside, so trace the stain upslope.
Cost Ranges and When to Call a Roofer
Materials for replacing a few shakes are modest: a bundle of matching shakes, a box of stainless nails and a shingle ripper usually total well under a couple hundred dollars. A roofer’s minimum service call for shake repair often runs a few hundred dollars, with the price climbing with roof height, pitch and the number of pieces. Full cedar shake roof replacement is a major project that typically costs many times more than asphalt, so it makes sense to extend a sound roof with spot repairs as long as the rest of it holds up.
Call a professional roofer if the roof is steep or two or more stories tall, if you lack proper fall protection, if damage covers more than a small area, if you find soft sheathing or flashing problems, or if you are unsure whether the roof is worth repairing. A roofer can also give you an honest patch-versus-replace opinion. For a single-story, moderate-pitch roof with a few bad pieces, careful cedar shake replacement is a manageable weekend task.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you replace just one cedar shake?
Yes. Split out the damaged shake, cut the hidden nails with a shingle ripper, slip in a matched replacement and fasten it so the nails end up under the course above.
What nails should I use for cedar shakes?
Use stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails. Plain steel nails corrode quickly when in contact with cedar and will stain the wood.
How much gap should be left between cedar shakes?
Leave about 3/8 to 1/2 inch between shakes so they can swell in wet weather without buckling.
Will new shakes match my old roof?
Not at first. New cedar weathers to gray over one to two years. Matching thickness and length matters more than color.
When should I replace the whole roof instead of patching?
Consider a full re-roof when damage is widespread, shakes are brittle or worn thin, the underlayment is failing or the roof is near the end of its service life.
