Cost to Replace GFCI Outlet: Parts, Labor & Electrician Rates

A GFCI outlet that trips constantly, will not reset, or fails its test button is a safety device that has stopped doing its job. The cost to replace GFCI outlet hardware yourself is usually just $15 to $40 for the device, while hiring an electrician typically runs $100 to $250 per outlet once the service call is included. Most of that professional price is the trip charge and first hour of labor, which is why replacing several outlets in one visit brings the per-unit price down fast.

Where your project falls in that range depends on the type of GFCI you need, where it is located, how many you are replacing, and whether the electrician finds problems in the box. An outdoor weather-resistant unit with an in-use cover costs more than a basic kitchen receptacle, and a dual-function GFCI/AFCI device costs roughly twice as much as a standard GFCI. Older homes can add surprise charges if the box is too small or the wiring is damaged.

Below is a breakdown of parts, labor, and the add-ons that move the price, plus a clear look at when a DIY swap makes sense and when it does not.

Average Cost to Replace GFCI Outlet

These are general national ranges; local labor rates vary considerably, with major metro areas at the high end.

In practice, many homeowners pay around $150 to have one bathroom or kitchen GFCI outlet replaced by a licensed electrician. Replacing four or five in a single visit often averages closer to $75 to $120 each.

GFCI Outlet Replacement Cost: Parts Breakdown

The device itself is the smallest line item, but the choice matters for both code and longevity.

• Standard 15-amp GFCI ($15 – $25): The common choice for bathrooms, laundry areas, and most kitchen countertop circuits on 15-amp wiring.
• 20-amp GFCI ($18 – $30): Required on 20-amp circuits where the receptacle has a T-shaped neutral slot; it must match the circuit rating.
• Weather-resistant (WR) GFCI ($20 – $40): Required in damp and wet locations such as patios, porches, and garages open to the weather. Look for “WR” on the face.
• Tamper-resistant (TR) GFCI: Current codes generally call for tamper-resistant receptacles in dwellings. Most new GFCIs are both TR and self-testing.
• Dual-function GFCI/AFCI ($40 – $60): Combines ground-fault and arc-fault protection, useful where local rules call for both on the same circuit, such as some kitchens and laundry rooms.
• In-use “bubble” cover ($10 – $30): An outdoor cover that stays weatherproof with a cord plugged in.
• Deep box or box extender ($3 – $15): GFCIs are bulkier than standard outlets and sometimes will not fit a crowded shallow box.

Buy a device listed by a recognized testing lab (such as UL or ETL). Cheap unlisted GFCIs sold online are a real fire and shock risk.

Electrician Rates and What Drives Labor Cost

Most licensed electricians charge $50 to $130 per hour, and many use a minimum service call of $75 to $150 that covers travel and the first half hour or hour. Some quote a flat rate per device instead. A straightforward swap takes 15 to 30 minutes, so on a single outlet you are paying mostly for the minimum.

These factors push labor higher:

• Multiple locations. Each extra outlet adds time, but far less than the first. Bundle every GFCI in the house into one visit.
• Troubleshooting. If the old unit tripped because of a ground fault somewhere downstream (a wet outdoor fixture, a failing appliance), finding it can take an hour or more.
• Box problems. A cracked, undersized, or loose box needs replacement, often $50 to $150 extra.
• Old wiring. Two-wire ungrounded circuits, brittle cloth insulation, or aluminum branch wiring need special handling and add cost.
• Access. Outlets behind appliances, in tight cabinets, or high on exterior walls take longer.
• Permits. Straight like-for-like replacement often needs no permit, but some jurisdictions require one, typically $50 to $150.

When a GFCI Outlet Needs Replacing

GFCIs wear out. Many manufacturers suggest expecting roughly 10 to 15 years of service, less outdoors or in humid bathrooms. Signs a replacement is due:

• The test button does not trip the device, or the reset will not latch.
• The status light blinks red or stays off on a self-testing model.
• The face is cracked, scorched, discolored, or warm to the touch.
• It trips with nothing plugged in, after you have ruled out moisture in the box.
• Plugs fall out easily because the contacts are worn.

Note that a GFCI that trips when a particular appliance runs may be working correctly. Test that appliance on another GFCI before blaming the outlet.

DIY vs. Hiring an Electrician

If you are comfortable with basic electrical work and your local rules allow homeowners to replace devices, a like-for-like GFCI swap is one of the more approachable jobs. The savings are real: $100 or more per outlet. The catch is that GFCIs have LINE and LOAD terminals, and reversing them leaves downstream outlets unprotected, or leaves the GFCI unable to reset.

Doing it yourself cuts the cost to replace GFCI outlet hardware to the price of the device. Here is how a like-for-like replacement generally goes when done safely:

1. Turn off the breaker for the circuit and confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester at the outlet, checking every wire in the box. Test the tester on a known live outlet first so you know it works.
2. Remove the cover plate and pull the old device out. Before disconnecting anything, label which cable is on the LINE terminals and which, if any, is on LOAD. Painter’s tape and a marker work well.
3. Connect the new GFCI. Supply cable to LINE (hot to brass, neutral to silver), downstream cable to LOAD only if the old one used it, and bare or green ground to the green screw.
4. Fold the wires in carefully, mount the device, and install the plate.
5. Restore power and test. Press reset, then use a plug-in GFCI outlet tester and the device’s own test button to confirm it trips and resets. Check any downstream outlets too.

If anything in the box does not match what you expected, such as more cables than terminals, no ground, aluminum conductors, or damaged insulation, stop and call a pro.

Ways to Save on GFCI Replacement

• Group the work. Have all bathrooms, the kitchen, garage, and exterior outlets checked and replaced in one visit.
• Buy the device yourself only if the electrician agrees; some will not warranty customer-supplied parts.
• Use one GFCI to protect several outlets. A single GFCI at the start of a circuit, wired through its LOAD terminals, can protect downstream standard receptacles. Label them “GFCI protected.” An electrician can confirm whether this layout is appropriate.
• Consider a GFCI breaker for hard-to-reach outdoor circuits. The breaker costs more ($40 to $120 plus labor), but it protects the whole circuit from the panel.
• Get two or three quotes and ask whether the price is flat-rate or hourly.

When to Call a Licensed Professional

Call a licensed electrician when a GFCI trips repeatedly and a new device does not fix it, when you need a GFCI where no outlet exists, or when adding a new circuit or working in the panel. Aluminum branch wiring, ungrounded two-wire circuits, scorch marks, melted insulation, or any smell of burning are all jobs for a licensed pro. Requirements for where GFCI protection is needed come from the National Electrical Code (NEC) as adopted and amended by your city or county, and local rules on permits and homeowner work vary, so check with your building department before starting. If you are ever unsure whether a circuit is de-energized, stop; never work on live wires.