The most common question when hanging anything on a brick exterior wall is whether to drill into brick or mortar for the anchor. There is a clear technical answer: mortar is softer and easier to drill, but brick holds anchors more securely. The right choice depends on the load you are hanging, the age of the masonry, and whether you ever want to remove the fixture without leaving permanent damage. Get it wrong and you either end up with a wobbly shelf or a cracked brick that requires repointing or replacement.
This guide covers the structural reasoning, the correct bit and anchor combinations, step-by-step drilling technique, and how to repair holes when you eventually remove a fixture.
Brick vs Mortar: Holding Power
A standard clay brick has a compressive strength of 2,500-10,000 PSI and accepts anchors that grip the dense interior. Standard mortar is much weaker — typically 750-2,500 PSI depending on the type (Type M strongest, Type N standard, Type O weakest). Anchors set in mortar pull out under loads as low as 30 pounds in old soft mortar; the same anchor in brick can hold 200+ pounds.
However: mortar holes are repairable. Drill into a brick and you have a permanent hole that requires brick replacement to fix. Drill into mortar and a small patch of fresh mortar makes the wall look new.
When to Drill Into Mortar
Light loads under 30 pounds: cable clips, address numbers, small decorative items, planter hangers, mailboxes, small flags. Mortar holes vanish with $8 of repointing mortar and 5 minutes of work. Reversible installations like seasonal decorations should always go in the mortar.
Also drill mortar when the brick is historic, irregular, or visibly cracked. Old soft-fired bricks (pre-1920) chip easily and lose face material when drilled. Modern face brick is harder but still risks cracking near edges.
When to Drill Into Brick
Heavy loads over 30 pounds: TV mounts, shelving with substantial weight, awnings, hose reels, security cameras with brackets, conduit straps for electrical. Anything you expect to stay in place for years. The brick body itself can hold sleeve anchors and screw anchors rated for 100-300 pounds with the right product selection.
Specifically avoid drilling within 1.5 inches of the edge of any brick — the corner zone is structurally weak and prone to spalling when an anchor expands inside it. Place anchors near the center of the brick face whenever possible.
The Right Drill and Bit
A standard 18-volt cordless drill struggles with brick and mortar. Use a hammer drill (rotary drill with percussive action) or a rotary hammer (SDS-Plus). The DeWalt DCH172 cordless rotary hammer ($240) is the go-to for occasional masonry work. For lighter use, a corded Bosch hammer drill ($90) handles small holes.
Carbide-tipped masonry bits are required. Bosch Bulldog and Milwaukee Sledge SDS bits in 3/16, 1/4, and 5/16-inch are the most common sizes for residential anchors. Test the bit at the matching diameter of your anchor — most plastic and lead anchors specify a drill bit size on the package.
Step-by-Step Technique
- Mark the hole with a pencil, ideally 1-2 inches from any brick edge.
- Tap the drill bit lightly with a hammer to create a small starter dimple. This prevents the bit from walking.
- Hold the drill at 90° to the wall — perpendicular, no angle.
- Apply firm steady pressure, not aggressive force. Let the hammer action do the work.
- Pull the bit out every 1/2 inch to clear masonry dust. Stuck dust binds the bit and overheats it.
- Drill 1/4 inch deeper than the anchor length to leave room for dust at the bottom.
Stop if the bit suddenly punches forward — you have hit a hollow in the brick. Pull out, switch to a longer bit or relocate the hole. Some brick is hollow-cored and will not hold standard anchors.
Anchor Choices for Brick
Plastic conical anchors with screws (Tapcon Phillips, Hilti Kwik-Con) hold 25-75 pounds in brick. The cheapest and most common choice. Use for picture frames, light fixtures, and address plaques.
Concrete screws (Tapcon Blue Climaseal) drive directly into a pre-drilled brick hole without a separate anchor. They hold 75-150 pounds and install fast. Available in 1/4-inch and 3/16-inch diameters at any hardware store. Match the drill bit size precisely (3/16-inch bit for 1/4-inch screw).
Sleeve anchors and wedge anchors hold the heaviest loads — 100-500 pounds — and are required for TV mounts, swing sets, and outdoor furniture brackets. Hilti, Powers, and Simpson Strong-Tie all make residential-grade sleeve anchors in 3/8 and 1/2-inch diameters.
Anchor Choices for Mortar
Stick to plastic anchors with #6 or #8 screws for mortar work. The mortar cannot hold the expansion force of a sleeve anchor without cracking. Tap-in lead anchors also work in newer hard mortar, but they spall older soft mortar.
For light decorations, mortar hooks (J-shaped wire hooks that wedge into mortar joints) hold 5-10 pounds without drilling at all. Great for hanging holiday wreaths and decorative items without permanent damage.
Preventing Brick Cracks
Cracks usually come from one of three mistakes: drilling too close to a brick edge, using a too-large bit relative to the anchor, or hammering an oversized anchor into an undersized hole. Stay 1.5 inches from any edge, match drill bit to anchor diameter exactly, and never force an anchor in dry — wet it slightly with water if it resists.
If you crack a brick, do not panic. A hairline crack across one brick face does not affect structural integrity. Hide it with a touch-up using brick stain (Brickit, Eskey’s brick stain pens) or simply leave it. A full brick replacement takes a mason about 30 minutes and $50-$100.
Repairing Holes When You Remove a Fixture
For mortar holes, mix a small batch of Type N mortar with water (Sakrete or Quikrete sells 10-pound bags for around $8). Push the mortar into the hole with a small pointing trowel, tool the surface to match surrounding joints, and let cure. Color-matching tinted mortar dyes are available at specialty masonry suppliers.
For brick holes, use a hydraulic patching cement tinted to match the brick color (Quikrete Concrete Repair, $7-$10 a tube). It will be visible up close but blends acceptably from a distance. Permanent invisible repair requires replacing the entire brick.
Choosing the Right Strategy for Each Job
Hanging a small “Welcome” sign that weighs 3 pounds? Drill the mortar joint — repair is trivial when you move out. Mounting a 65-inch TV bracket that weighs 80 pounds plus the TV’s 60 pounds? Drill the brick and use sleeve anchors. Installing a hose reel? Drill brick with concrete screws.
The decision to drill into brick or mortar comes down to two factors: how much load it must hold, and how reversible you need the install to be. Brick gives the strongest grip but permanent damage; mortar gives lighter holding but full repairability. Choose accordingly, drill carefully, and the masonry stays intact for decades.
