Outside Window Coverings: Shutters, Awnings and Solar Screens

Interior blinds stop glare, but by the time sunlight hits them the heat is already inside the house. Outside window coverings block solar heat before it reaches the glass, which is why they can cut heat gain through a window far more than any curtain or shade on the inside. The options range from hinged shutters and fabric awnings to mesh solar screens and roll-down exterior shades.

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The short answer: for pure heat reduction at a low cost, solar screens and exterior roller shades are hard to beat. For storm protection, functional shutters rated for wind and impact are the only real choice. For shade over a patio door or a south-facing picture window, an awning adds style and keeps the room cooler. Many homes end up mixing two or three types depending on each window’s exposure.

The right pick depends on climate, which way the windows face, and whether you need privacy, storm protection, or simply a cooler room.

Comparing Outside Window Coverings at a Glance

Effectiveness depends heavily on orientation. East and west windows take the hardest low-angle sun in morning and late afternoon, so screens and shades that cover the whole glass work best there. South windows get high-angle summer sun that a properly sized awning blocks well while still letting low winter sun in.

Solar Screens

Solar screens are tightly woven mesh panels, usually of vinyl-coated polyester, mounted in a frame over the outside of the window. Depending on the weave, they block a large share of the sun’s heat and glare while still letting you see out during the day. An exterior solar screen shade is the most cost-effective heat blocker for hot climates.

• Pros: inexpensive, easy DIY install with clips or turn buttons, reduce glare and fading, keep bugs out when the window is open.
• Cons: darken rooms year-round unless removed in winter, reduce the view somewhat, no storm protection.

Choose darker mesh colors for better outward visibility. Lighter colors reflect slightly more heat but are harder to see through. In cold-winter climates, remove screens in fall so you can capture passive solar heat.

Exterior Roller and Roman Shades

Exterior roller shades are fabric or mesh shades on a roller mounted over the window or inside a recess, with side cables or tracks that keep them from flapping. Outdoor roll up window shades can be operated with a crank, cord, or motor. Exterior roman shades fold up in soft pleats and are more common on porches and pergolas than on windows themselves, though some products are made for both.

Shades give you more control than fixed screens: down in summer afternoons, up when you want light or a view. Outdoor blinds for windows are also popular for sunrooms and porch enclosures. Track-guided systems handle wind better than free-hanging ones. Retract any fabric shade before a major storm, since they are not designed for high wind.

If a shade is motorized and hardwired, the wiring belongs to a licensed electrician. For any work near existing electrical, turn off the breaker and confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester, and never work on powered wires. Battery and solar-powered motors avoid new wiring entirely.

Fixed and Retractable Awnings

Awnings project out from the wall over the window, shading the glass from overhead sun. They add curb appeal and can reduce heat gain substantially on south and west windows.

Fixed Awnings

Fixed awnings are made from metal, polycarbonate, or fabric on a rigid frame. They stay up all year and require little attention. Metal awnings handle weather well; fabric ones fade and need recovering every several years.

Retractable Awnings

Retractable awnings fold back against the wall with a crank or motor. They offer shade when you want it and sun in winter. Most include a wind sensor option on motorized models, and they must be retracted in strong wind or heavy snow.

Awnings need solid mounting. Lag or anchor them into framing or masonry, not just siding or stucco, and seal penetrations so water does not leak into the wall. Larger projecting awnings may need a permit, and many HOAs regulate color and style.

Functional Exterior Shutters

Real working shutters, as opposed to decorative ones screwed flat to the siding, are hinged and close over the window. Louvered shutters let air flow while blocking direct sun. Board-and-batten and panel shutters block more light and offer more protection. Bahama-style shutters hinge at the top and prop open like an awning, offering shade and storm protection in one unit.

For hurricane-prone areas, look for shutters tested and approved for wind and impact. Decorative shutters provide no protection. Size functional shutters so each one covers half the window width, and use heavy-duty hinges and holdbacks rated for the weight.

How to Choose the Right Type

1. Map your windows by direction. Note which ones get hot afternoon sun, which face prevailing storms, and which need privacy.
2. Decide on your top priority. Heat? Choose screens or shades. Storms? Choose rated shutters or panels. Style and patio shade? Choose awnings.
3. Consider climate. In hot climates, year-round screens pay off. In mixed climates, removable or retractable options let winter sun in.
4. Check rules. HOAs and historic districts often regulate exterior changes. Some coastal areas require approved storm products.
5. Budget per window. Price out each window individually, since you do not need the same solution everywhere.

Measuring for Exterior Coverings

Accurate measurements make the difference between a tidy installation and a frustrating one. For solar screens, measure the outside of the window frame where the screen will sit, taking width at the top, middle, and bottom and height at the left, center, and right. Use the smallest numbers so the frame fits. Older homes are rarely square, so expect small differences.

For exterior roller shades, decide between an inside mount within a recessed opening and an outside mount on the wall over the window. Outside mounts should extend 2 to 3 inches past each side of the glass to block light leaks and side sun. For awnings, the projection matters as much as the width: a deeper awning shades more of the window but can block the view and catch more wind. Shutters should measure to the full height of the window opening and half the width each, so they cover the glass completely when closed.

Installation and Ladder Safety

Solar screens and small shades are reasonable DIY projects for ground-floor windows. Awnings and shutters involve heavier components and secure anchoring into framing. Set ladders on firm, level ground at roughly a 1-to-4 angle, keep three points of contact, and never overreach. Have a helper for anything over a few pounds, and do not work on a ladder in wind. For windows on the second story or higher, hire a pro with staging or lift equipment.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

• Screens rattle in wind: add more clips or turn buttons and check that the frame is square.
• Shade fabric flapping: install side cables or tracks.
• Awning leaking at the wall: reseal mounting fasteners and add flashing over the top bar.
• Shutters sagging: hinge screws pulled from soft trim. Remount into solid framing.
• Mildew on fabric: clean with mild soap and water, and let it dry fully before retracting.

Cost Ranges

Solar screens are typically the least expensive option, often under a couple hundred dollars per window installed, and less for DIY. Exterior roller shades run from a few hundred dollars per window for manual models to considerably more for motorized ones. Fixed awnings usually cost a few hundred to over a thousand dollars per window, and retractable motorized awnings for patios can run into the thousands. Functional shutters vary widely by material, from moderate for composite louvers to high for custom wood or rated storm shutters. Energy savings vary with climate and glass type, so expect the biggest payback on east and west windows in hot regions.

When to Call a Pro

Hire a pro for large awnings, rated storm shutters, motorized systems that need wiring, and any work on the second floor or higher. Contractors also know which local permits and approvals apply. For anything hardwired, use a licensed electrician, and for structural mounting on masonry or older framing, a licensed contractor can confirm the wall will hold the load.