Reroofing is one of the most rewarding home projects a confident DIYer can tackle, but a single misplaced nail or skipped step can lead to leaks that show up months later. Knowing how to put shingles on a roof correctly means understanding the layered system that keeps water out, from the deck up to the ridge cap. This guide walks through the full process for standard three-tab or architectural asphalt shingles so you can plan the job, work safely, and end up with a roof that sheds water for 20 to 30 years.
Part of our Roofing guide — explore the full guide →
- Safety and Preparation First
- Tools and Materials You Will Need
- Step 1: Tear Off the Old Roof
- Step 2: Install Drip Edge and Underlayment
- Step 3: Snap Your Layout Lines
- Step 4: Lay the Starter Strip
- Step 5: Install the First Course and Nailing Pattern
- Step 6: Work Up the Roof with Offset Courses
- Step 7: Flash Valleys, Vents, and Chimneys
- Step 8: Cap the Ridge
- Final Inspection and Cleanup
- Estimating Materials and Cost
- Common Mistakes to Avoid
- When to Call a Professional
Safety and Preparation First
Before anything else, respect the danger of roof work. Wear a roof harness anchored to a secure point, use rubber-soled shoes, and never work on a wet or windy day. A steep pitch above 6:12 is best left to professionals. Rent or buy roof jacks and planks for footing on any slope over 4:12.
Pull a permit if your area requires one, and check the weather forecast for a dry stretch of at least two to three days. Working in temperatures between 40°F and 85°F keeps shingles flexible and lets the adhesive strips seal properly.
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Gather everything before you climb up. A well-stocked job avoids dangerous mid-project trips down the ladder.
- Asphalt shingles (calculate square footage plus 10 percent for waste)
- 15- or 30-pound felt or synthetic underlayment
- Ice-and-water shield for eaves and valleys
- Starter strip shingles
- Drip edge (metal flashing)
- 1¼-inch galvanized roofing nails
- Roofing hammer or pneumatic nail gun
- Utility knife with hook blades, chalk line, and a flat pry bar
Step 1: Tear Off the Old Roof
Strip the existing shingles down to the bare deck using a roofing shovel or fork. Remove all old nails or hammer them flush. Once the deck is clear, inspect every sheet of plywood or OSB for soft spots, rot, or delamination, and replace any damaged sheathing. A solid, dry, flat deck is the foundation for everything that follows.
Step 2: Install Drip Edge and Underlayment
Start at the eaves. Nail metal drip edge along the bottom edge of the roof, then install an ice-and-water shield membrane over the first three feet in cold climates to guard against ice dams. Along the rake edges, drip edge goes on top of the underlayment.
Roll out underlayment horizontally starting at the eave, overlapping each course by at least 2 inches and end laps by 4 inches. Work your way up to the ridge, keeping the material flat and wrinkle-free. Underlayment is your second line of defense, so overlap it correctly and staple or cap-nail it down securely.
Step 3: Snap Your Layout Lines
Accurate chalk lines keep your shingle courses straight across the whole roof. Snap a horizontal line for each course based on the exposure printed on your shingle wrapper, typically 5 inches for standard shingles. Snap vertical lines too, so you can keep the pattern aligned and the tabs offset correctly. Taking time here prevents the crooked, wandering rows that give away amateur work.
Step 4: Lay the Starter Strip
The starter course is critical and often skipped by beginners. Install starter strip shingles along the eave with the adhesive strip facing up and toward the edge. This seals the bottom edge of the first course and prevents wind from lifting the tabs. Let the starter overhang the drip edge by about a quarter to a half inch.
Step 5: Install the First Course and Nailing Pattern
Lay your first full course of shingles directly over the starter strip, aligned to your chalk line. Nailing is where most leaks begin, so get it right. For standard three-tab shingles, drive four nails per shingle just below the adhesive line; in high-wind areas use six nails.
Follow these nailing rules closely:
- Drive nails straight, not angled, and flush with the surface
- Never overdrive nails so they cut into the mat
- Never nail into or above the adhesive strip
- Keep nails at least an inch from the shingle edges
Step 6: Work Up the Roof with Offset Courses
Each new course should overlap the one below and offset the vertical seams so water cannot run straight down a joint. For three-tab shingles, offset each course by half a tab, about 6 inches. Architectural shingles have a random pattern; follow the manufacturer’s stagger, usually offsetting by 6 inches per course. Keep checking your chalk lines every few courses to stay straight.
Step 7: Flash Valleys, Vents, and Chimneys
Roof penetrations are the most common leak points, so flash them carefully. Valleys should get ice-and-water shield underneath and either a woven, closed-cut, or metal valley on top. Slip step flashing under each shingle course where the roof meets a wall or chimney, and install rubber pipe boots over plumbing vents, tucking the upper edge under the shingles above and letting the lower edge lap over the shingles below.
Step 8: Cap the Ridge
Finish at the peak with ridge-cap shingles. If you are using three-tab shingles, cut them into individual tabs; architectural systems sell dedicated ridge caps. Bend each cap over the ridge and nail it down, overlapping so the exposed edge faces away from the prevailing wind. The final cap gets a dab of roofing cement over its exposed nails. If you have a ridge vent, install it before the caps to keep the attic ventilated.
Final Inspection and Cleanup
Once the roof is fully shingled, walk it to confirm every nail is seated, tabs are sealed, and flashing laps correctly. Use a magnetic sweeper around the house and in the yard to pick up stray nails, and clean out the gutters. On a warm day the shingles’ adhesive strips will bond within a day or two, locking everything down.
Learning how to put shingles on a roof takes patience and respect for the details, but the payoff is a weather-tight roof and real savings over hiring a crew. If your roof is steep, complex, or multi-story, do not hesitate to bring in a licensed roofer. For a simple gable roof, though, a careful weekend warrior with the right prep can absolutely get professional results.
Estimating Materials and Cost
Roofing is measured in squares, where one square equals 100 square feet. To estimate, calculate the total area of your roof planes and divide by 100, then add 10 to 15 percent for waste, valleys, and starter and ridge coverage. A typical single-story home has 20 to 30 squares of roof.
Materials for a DIY reroof usually run $150 to $400 per square for asphalt shingles, underlayment, and accessories, so a 25-square roof might cost $4,000 to $10,000 in materials. Hiring a professional crew adds labor, bringing the total to $350 to $700 per square installed. Doing the work yourself can cut the cost roughly in half, but budget for dumpster rental and equipment too.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Beginners tend to make a handful of predictable errors that lead to leaks or premature failure. Steering clear of these keeps your roof watertight.
- Skipping the starter strip: leaves the first course prone to wind uplift
- Overdriving or underdriving nails: cuts the mat or leaves shingles loose
- Nailing too high above the strip: the number-one cause of blow-offs
- Ignoring flashing: valleys, walls, and penetrations leak without it
- Reroofing over multiple old layers: most codes allow only two layers, and a tear-off is always better
When to Call a Professional
Some roofs are simply not DIY territory. A steep pitch above 6:12, a two- or three-story home, a complex roof with many valleys and dormers, or any sign of structural damage all warrant a licensed roofer. The same goes if your roof still has an active warranty, since a DIY install can void manufacturer coverage.
Professionals also carry insurance and complete a full roof in a day or two, versus a week or more for a solo weekend warrior. If you are unsure of your footing or the weather window is tight, the cost of a pro is money well spent for a leak-free, warrantied result.
For a simple, walkable gable roof, though, a methodical homeowner who respects safety and follows the layered system above can absolutely learn how to put shingles on a roof and save a substantial sum in the process.
