Mineral-surfaced asphalt roll roofing covers more low-slope sheds, porches, and outbuildings across the US than any other material — for the simple reason that a single person can cover a 100 sq ft roof in an afternoon for under $120 in materials. It’s not a forever roof, but for roofs under 2:12 pitch, detached garages, and budget reroofs, it fills a real niche. This guide walks through what the material is, where it makes sense, how to install it correctly, and where homeowners routinely get burned by doing it wrong.
- What Asphalt Roll Roofing Actually Is
- Where It Belongs and Where It Doesn't
- Lifespan: What to Actually Expect
- Cost: Materials and Installation
- Tools and Materials for a DIY Install
- Step-by-Step Installation (Concealed Nail Method)
- Flashing and Penetrations
- Common Install Mistakes
- Maintenance
- When to Choose Something Else
What Asphalt Roll Roofing Actually Is
Roll roofing is essentially a larger, continuous version of an asphalt shingle. A fiberglass or organic felt mat is saturated in asphalt, then coated with mineral granules on the top surface. It comes in 36-inch-wide rolls 36 to 72 feet long, weighing 75 to 90 pounds per square (100 sq ft). A single roll covers 100 to 200 square feet depending on the lap pattern. Common brand names include GAF Liberty, CertainTeed Roll Roofing, and IKO Armourcote.
The Three Main Types
- Smooth-surface (SBS or MSR): used as a base sheet or for cap sheets on built-up roofs
- Mineral-surface rolled roofing (MSR): the standard exposed-surface product, granulated like a shingle
- Self-adhered modified bitumen: peel-and-stick with an SBS-modified asphalt, significantly longer lifespan
Where It Belongs and Where It Doesn’t
Roll roofing is a low-slope product. Building codes in most US jurisdictions require a pitch of at least 2:12 (2 inches of rise per 12 inches of run) for standard shingles. Roll roofing can be installed on slopes as low as 1:12 with proper laps, and some self-adhered modified bitumen products go even lower.
Good applications:
- Garden sheds, chicken coops, firewood shelters
- Flat-ish carports and car canopies
- Detached garages with shallow pitches
- Low-slope porch additions or rear extensions
- Temporary weatherproofing on a house scheduled for a full reroof
Bad applications: main house roofs with pitches 4:12 and up (shingles look better and last longer), any flat roof under 1:12 (use EPDM, TPO, or modified bitumen), and anywhere that needs a 25+ year service life.
Lifespan: What to Actually Expect
Manufacturers rate standard MSR for 5 to 10 years. In real-world installs across the US, most homeowners get 8 to 12 years before UV cracking, granule loss, and edge curl force a replacement. Self-adhered modified bitumen doubles that to 15 to 25 years at a higher material cost. For context, a 30-year architectural shingle actually delivers 18 to 25 years in most climates.
Cost: Materials and Installation
Roll roofing is the cheapest roof covering you can legally install. Current US pricing:
- Materials only: $30 to $45 per roll ($0.30 to $0.45 per sq ft)
- Roofing nails, cap nails, and cement: $25 to $40 for a 200 sq ft job
- DIY total for a 200 sq ft shed: $100 to $150
- Professional install: $2 to $4 per sq ft all-in
- Self-adhered modified bitumen: $1 to $2 per sq ft in materials, $4 to $7 installed
Compare to architectural shingles ($3.50 to $7 per sq ft installed) and you can see why roll roofing wins on outbuildings.
Tools and Materials for a DIY Install
Keep it simple. You need:
- Rolls of MSR roofing (buy one extra for edge laps and mistakes)
- 1-inch galvanized roofing nails and a hammer, or a cap stapler
- Plastic roofing cement in a quart can or caulk tube
- Chalk line, tape measure, utility knife, straight edge
- Drip edge flashing for eaves and rakes
- 15 lb felt underlayment
Warm the rolls to at least 50°F before unrolling. Cold asphalt cracks and the granules pop off at every bend.
Step-by-Step Installation (Concealed Nail Method)
- Strip the old roofing to clean sheathing and sweep the deck
- Install drip edge along eaves and rakes
- Roll out a 9-inch starter strip along the eave, granule side down, nailed every 4 inches along both edges
- Snap a chalk line 35-1/4 inches up the slope for the first full course
- Unroll the first course, align it with the chalk line, nail the top edge every 4 inches
- Apply a 3-inch band of roofing cement along the top of the starter, then press the first course into it
- Repeat each course with a 2-inch head lap, staggering seams by at least 6 inches
- At the ridge, cap with a 12-inch-wide strip bedded in roofing cement
Concealed nailing (nails in the laps, covered by the next course) is the preferred method for any exposed residential roof. Exposed nailing is faster but every nail head becomes a future leak point.
Flashing and Penetrations
Roll roofing is forgiving on flat runs and merciless around penetrations. Pipe boots, vents, and chimneys need proper flashing bedded in cement and overlapped by at least 6 inches of roll roofing on the uphill side. Use a metal step flashing at any wall-to-roof junction, not just roofing cement. Valleys should get either a woven installation or a dedicated valley metal (W-valley) with 4 inches of cement on both sides.
Common Install Mistakes
- Installing on a cold day — the roll cracks at every fold
- Nailing too close to the edge (less than 1 inch) — nails blow out in wind
- Skipping the underlayment on bare OSB — accelerated decay at nail holes
- Using standard cement in cold weather — buy cold-apply formula below 40°F
- Running courses uphill — always start at the lowest eave
- Skimping on head lap — 2 inches minimum, 4 inches on pitches under 2:12
Maintenance
Walk the roof every spring and fall. Look for bubbles, curled edges, exposed asphalt where granules have washed off, and popped nails. Small bubbles can be slit, pressed flat, and sealed with cement. Large blistered areas usually mean trapped moisture — patch with a square of roofing nailed around the perimeter and topped with cement. Keep gutters clear; standing water at the eave accelerates failure.
When to Choose Something Else
If the roof visible from the street, expect to live in the house 15+ years, or the pitch is 4:12 or steeper, buy architectural shingles instead. For truly flat commercial roofs, EPDM rubber or TPO outperforms roll roofing for durability. Metal roofing on a shed costs 2x to 3x more but lasts 40+ years and resists hail and wind. Match the product to the service life you want, and roll roofing stays in its lane as a budget-friendly outbuilding cover.