Trees for Privacy Fence Lines: Picks That Rise Above 6 Feet

A 6-foot fence blocks the view at ground level, but it does nothing about the neighbor’s second-story window or the deck that sits a few feet higher than your yard. That is where trees for privacy fence lines come in: a row of upright trees planted a few feet inside the fence adds screening above the top rail without tearing up the posts. The trick is choosing trees that grow tall but stay narrow, and planting them far enough from the fence that roots and trunks do not push it out of line.

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For most yards, plant narrow evergreens or small columnar deciduous trees 4 to 6 feet inside the fence, keep large shade trees 10 feet or more away, and stay far enough off the property line that the mature canopy does not hang into the neighbor’s yard. Good choices include narrow arborvitae, upright juniper, columnar hornbeam, upright holly, and multi-trunk crepe myrtle in warm regions.

Choosing Trees for Privacy Fence Screening

Above-fence screening trees need a specific shape. Width is the limiting factor because most fence-line planting strips are only 4 to 8 feet deep. Look for trees described as columnar, fastigiate or narrow upright. They grow tall with tight branching and stay well under 8 feet wide.

Next, decide if you need year-round coverage. Evergreens screen in every season. Deciduous columnar trees drop leaves in fall but often have handsome bark, flowers or fall color, and their bare branches still break up a sight line in winter. Some homeowners mix the two, using evergreens where privacy matters most, such as opposite a patio or bedroom window, and deciduous trees elsewhere.

Think about height honestly. If you only need to block a view 3 or 4 feet above the fence, a 10 to 12 foot tree is enough. Choosing something that tops out at 40 feet creates shade, leaf cleanup and potential conflict with overhead lines.

Best Trees for Fence Line Planting

Narrow Evergreens

Narrow arborvitae and upright junipers are the go-to privacy trees along fence lines because they fit almost anywhere. They form dense columns, need little pruning, and their fibrous roots are gentle on fence posts. Among trees for privacy fence planting, they are the safest bet in a small yard. Plant them in a single row so they knit together just above the top rail within a few years.

Columnar Deciduous Trees

Columnar hornbeam is a favorite for formal yards. Young trees often hold dry brown leaves through winter, which gives partial screening even in the cold months. It takes shearing well, so you can keep it narrower than its natural width.

Crepe Myrtle Along a Fence Line

In warm climates, a crepe myrtle fence line adds summer color above the fence. Choose a variety whose mature size fits your strip, since sizes range from shrubs to 25-foot trees. Plant 5 to 6 feet off the fence and resist the habit of chopping the tops each winter, which ruins the natural shape.

When to Use Larger Trees

Wide, fast trees like Thuja Green Giant work only when the planting strip is 8 to 10 feet deep or more. In a typical narrow side yard they will crowd the fence within a few years.

Planting Distance From the Fence and Property Line

Use the tree’s mature width to set the distance. A simple rule: plant at least half the mature width away from the fence, plus 1 to 2 feet for air flow and access.

• Trees 3 to 4 ft wide: 3 to 4 feet from the fence
• Trees 6 to 8 ft wide: 4 to 6 feet from the fence
• Trees 10 to 15 ft wide: 7 to 10 feet from the fence
• Large shade trees: 10 to 20 feet or more

Your fence may not sit exactly on the property line. Many fences are set a few inches to a foot or more inside it. Check your survey or plat before planting so you know where the line actually is. Plant far enough inside it that the mature canopy stays on your side.

Within the row, space trees at about half to two-thirds of their mature width for a continuous screen. Narrow arborvitae go about 3 feet apart; columnar hornbeam 6 to 8 feet apart.

Root Impact on Fence Posts and Footings

Roots rarely lift a fence on their own, but trunks and large structural roots can. As a trunk thickens, it pushes sideways against anything in its way. A tree planted 1 foot from a post may tilt it within a decade. Large surface roots can also heave concrete footings or crack a mow strip.

Fibrous-rooted evergreens like arborvitae and juniper are the gentlest. Trees with large, spreading roots, such as maples, willows, poplars and some oaks, are better kept 15 feet or more from fences, foundations and pipes. If you are installing a new fence near existing trees, set posts outside the main root zone or bridge over large roots rather than cutting them, since cutting major roots can destabilize the tree.

Mind what lies underground. Fence lines often parallel buried utilities, irrigation lines and sewer laterals. Call 811 a few business days before digging so lines get marked. Keep trees well away from septic tanks and drain fields, and never lean into or put your head over an open septic tank; leave tank work to a licensed septic pro.

Overhang Rules and Neighbor Considerations

Rules vary by state and town, but a few principles apply in most places. Branches that cross the line can usually be trimmed back by the neighbor to the property line, as long as the trimming does not kill or seriously harm the tree. Tree trunks that straddle the line may be jointly owned. Fruit and leaves that fall naturally are generally not a legal issue, but they can strain relationships.

Many towns and HOAs have rules about fence-line plantings: maximum hedge heights, sight-line triangles at corners and driveways, and setbacks from sidewalks. Check before you plant. A quick conversation with your neighbor about what you plan to plant, and how tall it will get, prevents a lot of trouble later.

Overhead lines are another limit. Do not plant anything that will grow taller than about 25 feet under or near power lines, since the utility may cut it back hard.

Tools and Materials

• Survey or plat, tape measure and stakes
• String line to keep the row parallel to the fence
• Shovel, or a tree planting auger for multiple holes
• Garden fork to loosen hole walls
• Pruners for roots and twine
• Mulch and a soaker hose or drip line
• Gloves and eye protection

Planting Steps

1. Locate utilities and the line. Wait for 811 marks and confirm your property line.
2. Set the row. Run a string line parallel to the fence at the planting distance you chose and mark each tree.
3. Dig. Holes should be two to three times as wide as the root ball and no deeper than it.
4. Prepare roots. Loosen circling roots; remove twine and as much burlap and basket wire as you can.
5. Plant at grade. Keep the root flare level with or slightly above the soil. Backfill with native soil.
6. Water and mulch. Soak slowly, then spread 2 to 3 inches of mulch, keeping it off the trunks.
7. Water through two seasons. Deep watering once or twice a week in dry weather until established.

Troubleshooting

Thin side facing the fence: the fence shades the lower branches. Plant a little farther out or choose shade-tolerant species.

Fence boards staying damp: foliage pressed against the fence traps moisture and speeds rot. Trim back or move trees farther away.

Trees leaning toward the light: common on the north side of a tall fence. Pick species that tolerate partial shade, or plant on the sunny side.

Gaps between trees: replace a missing tree with the same species and size if possible, or tuck in a shade-tolerant shrub at the base.

Cost Ranges

Small container trees often cost from the low tens of dollars to under a hundred each. Trees in the 5 to 7 foot range typically run roughly a hundred to a few hundred dollars each, and larger specimens cost more plus delivery. Professional planting adds labor per tree. A 40 to 50 foot fence run can be screened for a few hundred dollars with small trees, or a few thousand with large installed trees.

When to Call a Licensed Professional

Call 811 before you dig. Hire a certified arborist or licensed landscape contractor for large trees, slopes, sites near septic systems or sewer lines, and any planting near overhead power lines, which should be handled by the utility or a line-clearance qualified arborist. If you are unsure where the property line is, a licensed surveyor can mark it. If a new fence is part of the project, follow local permit requirements and set posts clear of large roots.