How to Remove Tile Backsplash: Step-by-Step Guide

Removing a tile backsplash is a manageable DIY project, but it almost always causes some drywall damage. The key is working carefully to minimize that damage and knowing how to repair it before installing new tile or another backsplash material. Here’s the full process from start to finish.

Part of our Kitchen Remodeling guide — explore the full guide →

Tools and Materials Needed

Tools

• Oscillating multi-tool with a flat scraper blade (most useful tool for this job)
• Flat pry bar or stiff putty knife (3″ to 5″ wide)
• Hammer
• Cold chisel
• Utility knife
• Shop vacuum
• Safety glasses (mandatory — tile fragments are sharp and fly unpredictably)
• Work gloves (cut-resistant recommended)
• Dust mask or N95 respirator
• Drop cloths
• Painter’s tape

For Drywall Repair After

• Joint compound (pre-mixed, all-purpose)
• Drywall tape (paper or mesh)
• Drywall patches or new drywall sheet (if needed)
• 6″ and 10″ drywall knives
• 120-grit sandpaper or sanding sponge
• Primer

Time Estimate

For a standard kitchen backsplash (30-50 square feet of tile):

• Tile removal: 2 to 4 hours
• Cleanup: 30 minutes to 1 hour
• Drywall repair: 1 to 3 hours of active work, plus drying time between coats (24 hours per coat, typically 2-3 coats needed)
• Total project time: 1 to 2 days including drying time

Before You Start: Prep Work

Protect Your Countertops

Tile removal sends sharp fragments everywhere. Lay a drop cloth or old towels across your countertops. For granite, quartz, or marble countertops, add a layer of cardboard under the drop cloth for extra protection against falling tile pieces.

Remove Outlet Covers and Switch Plates

Turn off power to any outlets or switches in the backsplash area at the breaker panel. Verify power is off with a voltage tester. Remove all cover plates. Stuff a rag into the electrical boxes to keep debris out.

Score the Edges

Use a utility knife to score along every edge where the tile meets a different surface:

• Along the countertop edge
• Along the bottom of upper cabinets
• Along the sides where tile meets painted wall
• Around any window trim

Scoring cuts through the caulk and thin-set that bonds the tile edge to adjacent surfaces. Skipping this step risks pulling off chunks of cabinet paint or countertop caulk.

Step-by-Step Tile Removal

Step 1: Start at an Edge or Loose Spot

Find the easiest entry point — usually a corner, an edge tile, or a spot where a tile is already cracked or loose. Place your flat pry bar or stiff putty knife behind the tile at about a 30-degree angle. Tap it with the hammer to work it behind the tile.

Step 2: Pry Tiles Off

Once you have the pry bar behind a tile, lever it outward. Some tiles will pop off cleanly with the thin-set still attached. Others will crack and come off in pieces. Both are normal.

Tips for cleaner removal:

• Work from the edges toward the center
• Keep the pry bar as flat against the wall as possible to minimize drywall damage
• If a tile resists, don’t force it — move to an adjacent tile and come back
• For stubborn tiles, use the oscillating multi-tool with a flat scraper blade to cut between the tile and the wall

Step 3: Remove Remaining Thin-Set

After all tiles are off, you’ll have patches of dried thin-set mortar stuck to the wall. This needs to come off before you can install new backsplash material.

• Oscillating multi-tool: The most effective method. Use a rigid scraper blade and work at a shallow angle. This removes thin-set without gouging too deeply into the drywall.
• Putty knife and hammer: Tap the putty knife under the thin-set to pop it off. Slower but effective.
• Don’t use a belt sander or grinder: You’ll destroy the drywall paper face and create massive amounts of dust.

Step 4: Assess the Drywall

Once all tile and thin-set are removed, inspect the drywall. You’ll likely see:

• Torn paper face: The most common damage. The paper surface of the drywall pulls off with the thin-set, leaving rough brown paper or exposed gypsum. This is normal and repairable.
• Gouges and holes: Small holes from aggressive pry bar work. Also repairable with joint compound.
• Large sections of destroyed drywall: If the drywall is crumbling, soft, or heavily damaged across large areas, it’s easier to cut out the damaged section and replace it with new drywall than to try patching.

Drywall Repair After Tile Removal

For Torn Paper and Minor Damage

1. Seal torn paper: Brush a coat of drywall primer (like Zinsser Gardz) over any areas where the paper face is torn. This seals the exposed gypsum and gives joint compound something to grip. Let it dry completely (1-2 hours).
2. First coat of joint compound: Apply a thin skim coat of pre-mixed joint compound over all damaged areas using a 6″ drywall knife. Don’t try to make it perfect — just fill the damage. Let dry 24 hours.
3. Second coat: Apply another thin coat with a 10″ knife, feathering the edges into the surrounding wall. Let dry 24 hours.
4. Third coat (if needed): Only if you can still see imperfections or rough texture. Use the 10″ knife and feather wider.
5. Sand: Lightly sand with 120-grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge. You want smooth, not perfect — the new backsplash will cover it.
6. Prime: Apply one coat of drywall primer before installing new backsplash.

For Larger Holes or Destroyed Sections

1. Cut out the damaged drywall in a clean rectangle using a utility knife or oscillating tool
2. Cut a new piece of drywall to fit (use the same thickness — typically 1/2″)
3. Attach with drywall screws to the studs
4. Tape the seams with drywall tape
5. Apply 2-3 coats of joint compound over the seams, sanding between coats
6. Prime before tiling

Should You Replace All the Drywall?

If more than 50% of the backsplash area has significant drywall damage, it’s often faster and gives a better result to just cut out the entire section and install fresh drywall. A half sheet of drywall costs under $15, and you’ll get a perfectly flat, clean surface for your new backsplash.

Special Situations

Tile Over Tile

Some backsplashes have new tile installed directly over old tile. You’ll discover this when you pry off the top layer and find another layer underneath. The removal process is the same — just takes longer and usually causes more drywall damage because of the extra weight and adhesive.

Tile on Cement Board

If the original installer used cement backer board (common in shower areas, less common for backsplashes), your job is easier. Remove the tile and cement board together by unscrewing the board from the studs. Then install new cement board or tile directly onto the studs.

Tile on Plaster Walls

Older homes may have plaster instead of drywall. Plaster is harder and more brittle than drywall. Tile removal from plaster often causes chunks of plaster to break away. Use the same repair approach (skim coat with joint compound), but if large areas of plaster crumble, consider applying a 1/4″ layer of new drywall over the plaster before retiling.

Safety Reminders

• Eye protection is not optional. Tile fragments and thin-set chips are razor-sharp and fly unpredictably. Safety glasses (wrap-around style) should stay on the entire time.
• Wear a dust mask. Thin-set dust and drywall dust are irritating to breathe. An N95 respirator is best.
• Check for asbestos. If your home was built before 1990 and you’re unsure about the materials, have a sample tested before removal. Some older thin-set mortars and mastics contained asbestos.
• Verify electrical power is off before working near any outlets or switches.
• Work from a stable position. If your backsplash extends high above the counter, use a step stool — don’t lean across the counter to reach.

Cost: DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

• DIY cost: $20 to $50 for tools and materials (assuming you own basic hand tools)
• Professional removal: $300 to $700 for a standard kitchen backsplash, including drywall repair
• Professional removal + new tile installation: $1,500 to $3,500 depending on tile selection and kitchen size

This is one of the better DIY projects in terms of money saved versus skill required. The work is straightforward — just messy and physical. The only reason to hire it out is if you’re uncomfortable with drywall repair or have a complicated layout with lots of outlets and windows.