Laying Laminate Flooring: A Step-by-Step Guide

Laying laminate flooring is one of the most popular DIY home improvement projects, and for good reason. Modern laminate flooring uses click-lock systems that snap together without glue or nails, making installation accessible to anyone with basic tools and a bit of patience. A motivated homeowner can complete an average-sized room in a single day.

This step-by-step guide walks you through every phase of the process, from preparation and tools to cutting, fitting, and finishing. Follow these instructions and you will have a professional-looking floor you can be proud of.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Tools

• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Miter saw, circular saw, or jigsaw (for cutting planks)
• Tapping block (usually included with the flooring)
• Pull bar (for fitting the last row near walls)
• Rubber mallet
• Utility knife
• Spacers (1/4 to 3/8 inch)
• Speed square or T-square
• Safety glasses and ear protection
• Knee pads

Materials

• Laminate flooring (order 10 percent extra for waste and cuts)
• Underlayment (unless pre-attached to the planks)
• Moisture barrier film (for concrete subfloors)
• Transition strips for doorways
• Quarter-round or shoe molding for wall edges

Step 1: Prepare the Room

Remove Existing Flooring

Remove carpet, old vinyl, or any other flooring material down to the subfloor. If the existing floor is smooth, flat, and in good condition — such as old vinyl or tile — laminate can sometimes be installed directly over it. Check your laminate manufacturer’s guidelines for approved substrates.

Remove Baseboards

Carefully pry off baseboards and label them so you can reinstall them after the floor is laid. If you plan to add quarter-round instead, you can leave the baseboards in place.

Check the Subfloor

The subfloor must be flat within 3/16 of an inch over a 10-foot span. Use a long straightedge to check. High spots can be sanded or ground down. Low spots should be filled with a floor-leveling compound. Any squeaks in a wood subfloor should be fixed now by screwing the subfloor to the joists.

Clean the Subfloor

Sweep and vacuum thoroughly. Debris under the laminate will cause bumps and potentially damage the locking system.

Step 2: Acclimate the Flooring

Open the boxes and let the planks sit in the room for 48 hours. This allows the material to adjust to the room’s temperature and humidity. Stack the boxes flat or stand the planks upright — just keep them in the room where they will be installed. Skipping this step can lead to gaps or buckling after installation.

Step 3: Install the Underlayment

If your laminate does not have pre-attached underlayment, roll out the underlayment across the subfloor. Butt the edges together without overlapping and tape the seams with the manufacturer’s recommended tape. Over concrete, lay a 6-mil polyethylene moisture barrier first, overlapping seams by at least 8 inches and taping them.

The underlayment serves multiple purposes: it cushions the floor, reduces noise, compensates for minor subfloor imperfections, and provides a moisture barrier.

Step 4: Plan the Layout

Direction

Lay the planks parallel to the longest wall or perpendicular to the primary window. Running planks toward the light source makes the floor look more natural and hides seams between planks.

First Row Width

Measure the room width and divide by the plank width to see how many rows you will need. If the last row will be less than half a plank wide, rip the first row narrower to create a more balanced layout. A very narrow last row looks awkward and is harder to install.

Stagger End Joints

Plan to stagger the end joints of adjacent rows by at least 6 inches, preferably 12 inches or more. Random staggering looks the most natural. Avoid creating H-patterns where end joints line up in alternating rows.

Step 5: Install the First Row

1. Place spacers against the starting wall (1/4 to 3/8 inch gap depending on manufacturer instructions).
2. Lay the first plank in the corner with the tongue side facing the wall. If needed, cut off the tongue on the wall side for a cleaner edge.
3. Connect the second plank to the first by angling the end joint and clicking it into place.
4. Continue across the room. Measure and cut the last plank in the row, making sure to maintain the expansion gap at the far wall.
5. Use the cut-off piece from the last plank to start the next row (as long as it is at least 12 inches long).

Step 6: Install Subsequent Rows

1. Angle the long side of the new plank into the groove of the previous row at about 20 to 30 degrees.
2. Press down to click the long side into place.
3. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to close the end joint with the adjacent plank. Never strike the laminate directly with the mallet — always use the tapping block to protect the locking mechanism.
4. Continue row by row, working from left to right (or right to left). Check alignment every few rows to ensure the floor is running straight.
5. Use spacers along all walls and around fixed objects like columns and door frames.

Step 7: Cut Around Obstacles

Door Frames

Use an oscillating multi-tool or handsaw to undercut the door frame so the laminate slides underneath. Place a scrap piece of laminate on the underlayment next to the frame, rest the saw on the scrap, and cut the frame flush. This creates a clean, professional look without visible gaps.

Pipes

Drill a hole slightly larger than the pipe diameter in the plank. Cut a straight line from the hole to the edge of the plank, fit the plank around the pipe, and glue the cut piece back in place. Cover with a pipe escutcheon ring for a finished look.

Irregular Walls

If a wall is not straight, use a scribe tool or compass to transfer the wall’s profile onto the plank. Cut along the scribed line with a jigsaw for a perfect fit.

Step 8: Install the Last Row

The last row usually needs to be ripped to width. Measure the gap at several points along the wall (walls are rarely perfectly straight) and transfer the measurements to the planks. Rip the planks on a table saw or with a circular saw guided by a straightedge. Use a pull bar to click the last row into place since there is no room for the tapping block against the wall.

Step 9: Finish the Installation

• Remove all spacers from around the perimeter
• Reinstall baseboards or add quarter-round molding to cover the expansion gap
• Install transition strips at doorways where the laminate meets other flooring materials
• Install reducers, T-moldings, or end caps as needed at the edges of the flooring

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping acclimation: Leads to gaps in dry conditions or buckling in humid conditions
• Forgetting expansion gaps: Laminate must be able to expand. Without gaps, the floor will buckle
• Fixing the floor to the subfloor: Never nail, screw, or glue laminate to the subfloor (unless the manufacturer specifically requires it). Floating floors need to move freely
• Installing over an uneven subfloor: Bumps and dips telegraph through laminate and damage the locking system
• Not staggering end joints: Creates weak lines and an unnatural appearance
• Forcing planks: If a plank will not click in easily, check the alignment. Forcing it will break the lock

How Long Does It Take?

An experienced DIYer can lay laminate at a rate of about 100 to 200 square feet per hour once the rhythm is established. A 150-square-foot bedroom might take three to four hours. A larger open-concept living area of 500 square feet could take a full day. Allow extra time for the first room as you learn the system.

Final Thoughts

Laying laminate flooring is a rewarding project that delivers impressive results. The key is thorough preparation — a flat, clean subfloor and proper acclimation set the foundation for success. Take your time with the first few rows to establish a straight, well-staggered pattern, and the rest of the installation will flow smoothly. With careful work, your new laminate floor will look and perform beautifully for years to come.