New Homeowner Checklist: First Week Tasks for Your House

The keys are in your hand, the boxes are stacked in the living room, and nobody has told you where the water shutoff is. A focused new homeowner checklist for the first week covers the handful of tasks that protect you from the most common and most expensive surprises: an unknown number of old keys floating around, a burst pipe you cannot stop, a dead smoke alarm, or a clogged dryer vent.

Here is the core list. Change or rekey the exterior locks. Find the main water shutoff, the gas meter valve and the electrical panel. Label circuits. Test every smoke and carbon monoxide alarm. Replace the HVAC filter. Check the water heater and clean the dryer vent. Then start a simple maintenance log so you know what was done and when.

None of these jobs takes more than an afternoon, and most need only basic tools. Knock them out before the house fills up with furniture and the tasks become harder to reach.

The New Homeowner Checklist for Week One

Work through this new homeowner checklist in order of risk. Security and emergency shutoffs come first, because you need them before anything goes wrong. Safety alarms come next, then the systems that quietly wear out if nobody looks after them.

1. Change or rekey exterior door locks and reset the garage door opener codes.
2. Locate and tag the main water shutoff and fixture shutoffs.
3. Find the gas meter and appliance gas valves (look, do not adjust).
4. Find the electrical panel and label every breaker.
5. Test smoke and carbon monoxide alarms; add any that are missing.
6. Replace the HVAC filter and note its size.
7. Check the water heater settings and surroundings.
8. Clean the dryer vent from the machine to the exterior hood.
9. Start a maintenance log with dates, model numbers and receipts.

Tools and Supplies to Have on Hand

• Flashlight or headlamp and fresh batteries
• Painter’s tape and a fine-tip permanent marker for labels
• A non-contact voltage tester and a plug-in outlet tester
• Screwdrivers, adjustable wrench and a water meter key if your shutoff is at the curb
• Replacement HVAC filters in the correct size
• A dryer vent brush kit and a shop vacuum
• Spare smoke and CO alarm batteries, plus a step ladder
• A binder or notebook for the maintenance log

Step 1: Secure the House

You have no idea how many copies of the old keys exist. Previous owners, contractors, dog walkers and neighbors may all have one. Rekeying keeps your existing hardware and changes the pins inside, which is usually cheaper than full replacement. A locksmith can rekey several locks in one visit, or you can buy a rekey kit for common lock styles.

This is also a good moment to consider an upgrade. A smart door lock with a keypad lets you issue temporary codes to movers and trades, then delete them afterward. Choose a model that still has a physical key backup and replace its batteries on a set schedule.

Reset the garage door opener by clearing its remote memory and reprogramming only your own remotes. Change any keypad code, and update the alarm system passcode if the house has one.

Step 2: Find the Water, Gas and Electrical Shutoffs

Main Water Shutoff

The main valve is usually where the water line enters the house: in a basement near the front wall, in a utility closet, near the water heater or in a crawlspace. In warm climates it may be outside or in a box near the curb. Turn it off and on once to confirm it moves; if it is stiff or leaks at the stem, have a licensed plumber replace it. Tag it with bright tape so anyone in the family can find it fast. Then locate the small shutoff valves under each sink and behind each toilet.

Gas Meter and Appliance Valves

If the house has natural gas or propane, find the meter or tank valve and the individual valves behind the range, furnace, water heater and dryer. Look, but leave them alone. Gas lines and connections are licensed-professional work only, including any appliance hookup or leak test. If you ever smell gas (a rotten-egg odor), do not flip switches or use a phone inside; leave the house and call the gas utility from outside.

Electrical Panel

Find the main panel and any subpanels. Many homes arrive with breakers labeled “misc” or not at all. With a helper, switch one breaker off at a time and note which lights and outlets go dead, then write clear labels. Before touching any cover plate or fixture, turn off the breaker and confirm power is off with a non-contact voltage tester. Do not remove the panel cover itself; that is work for a licensed electrician. If you want new circuits or outlets, hire a licensed electrician and pull the permit.

Step 3: Test Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarms

Press the test button on every alarm. Look for the manufacture date on the back: smoke alarms are generally replaced about every ten years, and CO alarms often every five to ten years depending on the model’s label. You want smoke alarms inside each bedroom, outside each sleeping area and on every level, including the basement.

If the home has any fuel-burning appliance (gas furnace, gas range, gas water heater, fireplace or wood stove) or an attached garage, install carbon monoxide alarms on every level and near sleeping areas. Have fireplaces and chimneys inspected and swept before the first fire, and schedule an annual inspection of chimneys and appliance vents. Keep vents and flues clear, and follow the maker’s clearance instructions for anything that burns fuel.

Also check that a fire extinguisher sits in or near the kitchen and that everyone knows how to use it.

Step 4: Replace the HVAC Filter and Check the System

Pull the current filter and write its size on the equipment or in your log. A dirty filter strains the blower and reduces airflow. Standard one-inch filters are usually changed every one to three months; thicker media filters last longer. Mark the date on the new filter’s edge.

While you are there, look for water pooling around the indoor unit and confirm the condensate line is draining. Clear leaves and debris from around the outdoor unit. If nobody can tell you when the system was last serviced, book a tune-up with a licensed HVAC technician; combustion furnaces should get a safety check, including the venting.

Step 5: Check the Water Heater

Note the age from the label or serial number; tanks commonly last around eight to twelve years. Set the temperature to about 120°F, which reduces scald risk and saves energy. Look for rust, drips, a wet base or a missing discharge pipe on the temperature and pressure relief valve. Keep the area around a gas water heater clear of boxes and never store paint thinners, gasoline or other flammables nearby. Any gas-side work, venting repair or replacement belongs to a licensed plumber.

Step 6: Clean the Dryer Vent

Lint buildup is a leading cause of dryer fires. Unplug an electric dryer (or have a pro handle a gas dryer’s connection), pull it forward and disconnect the duct. Run a vent brush through the duct and out to the exterior hood, then vacuum the lint trap housing. Replace flimsy foil or plastic ducts with rigid or semi-rigid metal duct, and confirm the outside flap opens freely when the dryer runs.

Step 7: Start a Maintenance Log

Create a simple log with sections for each system: roof, HVAC, plumbing, electrical, appliances and flooring. Record model and serial numbers, install dates, warranty terms, paint colors and the name of any contractor who works on the house. Add photos of the panel labels and shutoff locations. This is the foundation for seasonal upkeep and makes future repairs and resale easier.

Troubleshooting Common First-Week Surprises

• Shutoff valve will not turn: do not force it with a long wrench. Call a licensed plumber to replace it.
• Breaker trips repeatedly: unplug devices on that circuit. If it still trips, have a licensed electrician investigate.
• Alarm chirps after a new battery: the unit may be at end of life. Replace it.
• Musty smell in the basement: check for leaks and run a dehumidifier; address moisture before storing boxes on the floor.
• Floors show scratches from moving: add felt pads under furniture and doormats at entries before damage spreads.

Budget and When to Call a Pro

Costs vary by region. Rekeying typically runs from tens of dollars per lock as a DIY kit to more for a locksmith visit, and a smart lock usually costs somewhere between one and a few hundred dollars. Smoke and CO alarms are generally inexpensive per unit. An HVAC tune-up and a professional dryer vent cleaning often fall in the low hundreds each.

Call a licensed plumber for stuck valves or water heater problems, a licensed electrician for panel issues, new circuits or outlets, and a licensed gas contractor or the utility for anything involving gas. Chimney inspections should go to a certified chimney professional.