Where to Buy Kitchen Cabinet Doors Only

If your cabinet boxes are still solid but the fronts look tired, you don’t need a full gut job. Knowing where to buy kitchen cabinets doors only lets you reface a kitchen for a fraction of replacement cost. A door-only order typically runs $15 to $90 per door depending on species and finish, versus $4,000 to $12,000 for new cabinetry installed.

When Buying Doors Only Makes Sense

Doors and drawer fronts carry the visual weight of a kitchen. The boxes behind them stay hidden. If your face frames are square, the boxes aren’t water-damaged, and the layout works, swapping fronts is the smartest money you can spend. Refacing this way keeps your plumbing, countertops, and appliances in place and usually wraps up in a weekend or two.

Skip the door-only route if boxes are delaminating, sagging, or made of low-grade particleboard that has swelled at the sink base. In that case you’re better off replacing the whole cabinet.

Ready-to-Assemble (RTA) Cabinet Suppliers

Most RTA companies will sell you doors and drawer fronts separately, even when their main business is full cabinets. Because they already stock hundreds of sizes, matching your openings is straightforward.

• Cabinet Door Store, Cabinetdoors.com, and TaylorCraft — dedicated door-only shops. Order Shaker, raised-panel, slab, or glass-ready frames in maple, oak, cherry, or MDF for paint. Expect $18 to $60 per unfinished door.
• Barker Door and Semihandmade — Semihandmade specializes in fronts sized for IKEA SEKTION boxes, useful if you have or plan an IKEA base.
• The RTA Store, Cabinets To Go, and Wholesale Cabinets — will quote doors à la carte from their existing lines so finishes match a future box order.

Custom and Local Door Shops

A local cabinet or millwork shop can build doors to any dimension, including odd sizes stock suppliers won’t cut. This is the route for inset doors, unusual arches, or a species like walnut or rift-sawn white oak. Custom paint-grade doors run $40 to $90 each; solid hardwood with a stained finish can top $120. Turnaround is usually two to four weeks. Ask to see a sample rail-and-stile joint — cope-and-stick or mortise-and-tenon construction holds up far better than glued butt joints.

Home Centers and Big-Box Options

Home Depot and Lowe’s carry a limited selection of stock replacement doors, mostly oak and paint-grade in common widths (9″, 12″, 15″, 18″). They’re fine for a garage or laundry cabinet, but the size range rarely matches an older kitchen exactly. Both stores also broker semi-custom door orders through their kitchen desks, though lead times stretch to several weeks and pricing climbs toward custom-shop territory.

Online Marketplaces and Salvage

Etsy has a growing base of small woodworkers building made-to-order Shaker and slab fronts, often in real hardwood at fair prices. Habitat for Humanity ReStores and architectural salvage yards sometimes have matched sets pulled from remodels — a gamble on sizing, but you can walk out with a dozen solid-wood doors for $50. eBay and Facebook Marketplace occasionally list full door sets from discontinued lines.

Measure Before You Order

Door-only ordering lives or dies on measurements. Measure the door itself, not the opening, when you’re matching existing overlay.

1. Overlay style: Determine whether your doors are full overlay (cover most of the face frame), partial overlay (½” reveal around each), or inset (flush inside the frame). This dictates how much the new door must overhang the opening.
2. Width and height: Measure an existing door to 1/16″. For full overlay, doors usually add 1″ to 1-1/4″ to the opening in each direction.
3. Hinge type: Note whether you have European concealed hinges (need a 35mm bored cup) or exposed hinges. Most suppliers will bore the cup holes if you specify hinge brand and overlay.
4. Count drawer fronts separately — they’re priced and sized differently from doors.

Order one sample door first if the supplier allows it. Confirming the bore location and finish on a single piece beats discovering a problem across 24 doors.

Unfinished vs. Prefinished

Unfinished doors cost less and let you color-match your existing boxes, but you’ll spend a weekend sanding, priming, and spraying. Budget for a quality primer like BIN shellac-based and a self-leveling enamel such as Benjamin Moore Advance if you’re painting. Prefinished doors arrive ready to hang with a factory conversion-varnish coat that’s tougher than anything you’ll spray at home — worth the $10 to $20 upcharge per door for durability at the sink and stove.

Matching Doors to Existing Boxes

The trap in refacing is a color mismatch between new doors and old boxes. Two fixes work. Apply peel-and-stick or iron-on veneer to the exposed face frames and box ends in a matching wood, then finish everything together. Or paint both new doors and existing frames the same color, which erases any grain or tone difference entirely. Painting is the more forgiving path for a DIY refacing project.

What a Door-Only Refacing Costs

For a typical 10-by-10 kitchen with roughly 20 doors and 6 drawer fronts, plan on:

• Unfinished Shaker doors and fronts: $600 to $1,200
• Concealed hinges (2 per door): $80 to $160
• Veneer for face frames: $150 to $300
• Primer, paint, and supplies: $120 to $200
• New knobs and pulls: $80 to $250

All in, a refacing lands between $1,000 and $2,200 in materials — roughly a fifth of what new cabinets cost. That gap is the whole reason to figure out where to buy kitchen cabinets doors only before you price a tear-out.

RTA and Refacing Suppliers Compared

If you’re weighing a doors-only order against a broader refacing kit, it helps to see how the main supplier types stack up on price, lead time, and effort:

• Dedicated door shops (Cabinetdoors.com, TaylorCraft): Widest door style and species range, per-door pricing, 1 to 3 week lead. You source hinges and veneer separately. Best for a true doors-only budget job.
• Refacing suppliers (Cabinet Doors ‘N More, Reface Depot): Sell matched door-plus-veneer kits so fronts and exposed box surfaces coordinate out of the box. Costs more but removes the color-matching guesswork.
• RTA houses (Cabinets To Go, The RTA Store): Door à la carte from a line you can later expand into full boxes. Good when a partial box replacement is also on the table.
• Semihandmade / Barker: Made-to-order fronts, premium finishes, longer lead times of 4 to 8 weeks. Best when design matters more than turnaround.

Order a door and a matching veneer sample from two suppliers before committing to a full kitchen — seeing the actual color and finish side by side prevents the most expensive refacing mistake.

Common Ordering Mistakes to Avoid

Door-only projects fail in predictable ways, and every one is preventable. Measuring the opening instead of the existing door throws off full-overlay sizing across the whole kitchen. Forgetting to specify the hinge cup bore means drilling 35mm holes yourself, which is easy to botch. Ordering all doors the same size when your kitchen has three or four distinct widths leads to a pile of returns. And underestimating drawer fronts — which are sized and priced separately from doors — leaves you short mid-project. Build a simple spreadsheet listing every opening with its door size, drawer-front size, overlay type, and hinge, then order straight from that list. The extra hour of counting saves days of back-and-forth with the supplier.

Refacing vs. Full Replacement

Before you order a single door, be honest about which project you’re really doing. A doors-only refacing makes sense when the boxes are structurally sound, the layout works, and you mainly want a fresh look — it saves thousands and weeks of disruption. Full replacement is the right call when boxes are water-damaged or falling apart, when you want to change the layout, add cabinets, or move appliances, or when the kitchen has low-grade particleboard boxes that are already failing. A middle path exists too: replace only the boxes that are damaged (often the sink base) and reface the rest with new doors. Weigh the door-and-veneer cost, which usually runs $1,000 to $2,500 in materials, against a full replacement at $8,000 to $20,000 installed. If the boxes have another decade in them, doors-only is almost always the smarter spend — and knowing where to source those doors is what makes it possible.

Final Checklist

Confirm the supplier bores for your exact hinge, order a sample, and buy one or two spare doors in case of shipping damage or a future measuring error. Lock your species, overlay, and finish decisions before you place the order — a door-only purchase is only cheap when it fits the first time.