Lay Brick or Tile: Choosing and Installing for Outdoor Patios and Walkways

Whether to lay brick or tile for an outdoor surface comes up on almost every patio, walkway, and pool deck project, and the answer depends on installation method, climate, and how you plan to use the surface. Brick pavers go down dry-set on compacted base and shrug off frost; outdoor porcelain tile gives a sleeker modern look but typically needs a concrete substrate and proper expansion joints. Get the wrong material on the wrong base and you are looking at heaving, cracking, or moss-filled gaps within 3 to 5 winters.

Part of our Tile & Grout guide — explore the full guide →

This guide compares brick pavers and porcelain tile head-to-head, then walks through the installation methods that actually last for each.

Brick Pavers vs Porcelain Tile at a Glance

Brick pavers are dense, kiln-fired clay typically 4x8x2.25 inches. They are sized for sand-set installation over a crushed stone base, which lets them flex with frost without cracking. Lifespan: 50 to 100+ years.

Outdoor porcelain tile (technically “exterior porcelain pavers”) is typically 24x24x3/4 inch or larger, designed either for sand-set installation in a similar way to brick or for thinset application over concrete. Look for tiles rated R11 or higher for slip resistance and ASTM C1028 compliance.

Both can work brilliantly. The choice usually comes down to look, base type, and installer skill.

Cost Comparison

• Brick pavers, materials only: $4 to $8 per sq ft
• Porcelain pavers, materials only: $5 to $12 per sq ft
• DIY brick installation total: $8 to $14 per sq ft (including base materials and tools)
• DIY porcelain installation total: $10 to $18 per sq ft over sand, or $14 to $22 per sq ft over concrete
• Contractor brick installation: $18 to $30 per sq ft
• Contractor porcelain installation: $22 to $40 per sq ft

Brick wins on labor cost in most markets because the installation process is forgiving and faster.

Sand-Set Brick Paver Installation

The traditional method, perfected over centuries. Works in every US climate including frost zones up to Zone 3.

1. Excavate 7 to 9 inches below finished grade
2. Lay geotextile fabric on the subgrade
3. Compact 4 to 6 inches of crushed stone base (Class 5 or 21A) in 2-inch lifts
4. Add 1 inch of bedding sand, screeded smooth
5. Lay pavers in your chosen pattern (running bond, herringbone, basket weave)
6. Install edge restraint along all perimeter edges
7. Sweep polymeric sand into the joints, mist with water to activate

This system flexes with freeze-thaw cycles, which is why brick pavers in Minnesota driveways outlast concrete by decades. Polymeric sand replaces traditional play sand and prevents weed growth and ant tunneling.

Outdoor Porcelain Tile: Two Installation Methods

Method 1: dry-set over a sand and stone base, just like brick. This works for 2cm-thick (3/4 inch) outdoor porcelain pavers and follows essentially the same steps as brick. The look is more contemporary and the tiles are typically 12×24, 24×24, or 24×48 format.

Method 2: thinset over a structurally sound concrete slab. This is the only acceptable method for thinner porcelain (under 1 inch). Steps:

1. Confirm the slab is in good condition, sloped 1/4 inch per foot for drainage
2. Apply a crack-isolation membrane like Schluter DITRA or Laticrete Strata Mat
3. Use exterior-rated thinset (Mapei Ultraflex 2 or Laticrete 254 Platinum)
4. Set tiles with at least 1/4-inch grout joints
5. Plan expansion joints every 12 feet and at all wall transitions
6. Grout with epoxy or polymer-modified cement grout rated for exterior use

This installation method requires concrete that is sound, sloped correctly, and not subject to significant frost heave. New slabs should cure 28 days minimum before tile installation.

Climate Considerations

In freezing climates, brick pavers on a flexible sand base outperform tile on a rigid slab nearly every time. Concrete cracks; sand-set systems shift and reset.

In southern climates without freeze-thaw, both materials perform comparably. Porcelain tile becomes more attractive in hot climates because it resists fading and stays cooler underfoot than dark brick (which can hit 130°F in direct sun).

Slip Resistance for Wet Areas

Pool decks and rainy walkways need slip-rated material. Brick pavers naturally have a textured surface from the firing process and rate well for traction. Porcelain ranges widely — choose tiles rated DCOF (Dynamic Coefficient of Friction) above 0.42 for wet areas, ideally R11 or R12 in European ratings.

Smooth polished porcelain becomes a liability when wet. The “outdoor pavers” lines from Daltile, Atlas Plan, and MSI are textured specifically for traction.

Pattern Options

Brick pattern choices:

• Running bond — easiest, most forgiving cuts
• Herringbone — locks tightly, best for driveways under vehicle weight
• Basket weave — traditional, more cuts at edges
• European fan — formal, high cutting waste

Porcelain tile patterns:

• Straight grid (most common in 24×24)
• Offset 1/3 (modern alternative to running bond, eliminates lippage in long planks)
• Linear plank in 12×24 or 16×32

Maintenance Reality

Brick pavers need polymeric sand topped up every 5 to 10 years and joint reweeding once or twice a season if you skip pre-emergent. Pressure washing in spring removes algae and moss.

Porcelain tile is essentially maintenance-free for the tile itself, but grout lines crack at expansion joints and need recaulking every 3 to 5 years. Sealed grout reduces staining significantly.

When to Choose Brick

• Cold climate with frost heave concerns
• Traditional or historic home architecture
• You want to DIY and not deal with concrete pours
• Driveways or surfaces under vehicle traffic
• You like a soft, organic, weathered look

When to Choose Porcelain Tile

• Modern or contemporary home architecture
• You have an existing concrete slab in good condition
• You want low-maintenance, fade-resistant surface
• Pool decks where you can match interior tile
• Mild climate without significant frost-heave

Common Mistakes

Skimping on the base layer dooms either material. A patio over 3 inches of compacted stone instead of 6 inches will heave within 2 winters. The base is the most important part of the project, no matter what surface goes on top.

For tile specifically, the most common error is using interior thinset and grout outdoors. The freeze-thaw spec’d products cost 30% more but are non-negotiable.